I had a similar issue with 1/3 of my entire bulkhead soaked. The plywood had essentially dissolved. In the end I had a local boatyard cut out the entire bulkhead and replace it. Foam core, glassed along the top (like it shoaled have been in the first place) and solid glass at the chainplates.
We race with all NS similar to Wildcat and our tuning is very similar to the above. I would add that we leave the headstay at max length until 18 knots, then put turns on after that. We tend to be on the extreme at low end and upper end with tension of standing rigging - . Super loose in light air, with leeward shrouds like a noodle. In high winds, we go up to 42/43 on lowers and uppers. We also tighten turnbuckles on the backstay in over 18 as well to allows for enough backstay tension. The tension on the backstay for breezy conditions does not allow the backstay to be eased enough in light air so a light and heavy air setting for both backstay turnbuckles is needed.
I have found that if you reef the main, it is very difficult to point. Some boats in OD get faux reef points that meet the rule but can't be used as they feel they will never reef the main while racing.
Take some pics and post them and I'm sure you will get a few opinions on this forum.
Reputation for FAST - J30 Racing Boat completely Race Ready! She is in pristine shape, dry (for a J/30), and has never seen salt. Bottom completely redone Summer 2020, Keel templated. Recently upgraded with a new TriRadial Dacrom Sail Package, Northstar AGM batteries, new bilge pumps, new bilge hoses, reconditioned prop, LED lighting, stainless hardware, stainless prop shaft and more. Includes an inventory of race sails.
Currently parked at Jefferson Beach Marina (SafeHarbor) in Saint Clair Shores , comes with desirable dock slip for remainder of 2020 season.
Thanks for the intel Russ, I'll look into this. One question, what diameter cables is your standing rigging? I'm looking at the PT-2 Loos Guage label and some of the numbers you're stating are well below the chart for 1/4"
One other thing. If you are sailing in a lot of heavy air and chop to the point you are cranking on your shrouds, I would recommend that you make sure your bulkheads are solid and dry. I have a newer boat, hull 529, and still beefed up my chainplates. Drawings of our chainplate mods are on this web site under "info", J30 drawings and files
Here's our numbers though not in pounds; you'll have to look up the conversion from the info on line. We have a pro style Loos gauge Our numbers are a place to start as we fine tune based on mast shape and sea conditions
Wind 0-6 uppers = 20 ish lowers = 15 ish (some would say that's too loose. We think it fast We raced last night in 7 -8k winds we set shrouds at 30 and 25. Uppers were a bit too tight. Yet we won OA. The boat was fast and sailed above our targets up and down wind. Our base setting is 32 -27 for 10-12k. Again a starting point 14k we set at 36 -30 above 16 we set at 41u and 40 on lowers w/shortened headstay
We race with strictly North sails for serious OD racing We have some old Quantum sails for banging around on beer can racing
Hi All, I'm having trouble establishing satisfying settings for Light/Medium/Heavy air that provide consistent winning results in our PHRF night races.
Following the "Rig Tuning" guides saved under Info, specifically the North Sails Quick Reference Guide, have been questionable.
North Sails Quick Reference Guide – Version 1.0 Wind V1 (Caps) D1 (Lowers) Headstay turns from 0 Base Setting 1050 950 15 Light (0-7) 450 250 10 Medium (8-12) 1050 950 15 Medium/Heavy (13-17) 1600 1600 20 Heavy (18+) 2000-2200 2000-2200 20-30
We've been following the Base Setting to start, results have been okay here. However on both Light and Heavy ends of the spectrum these numbers just don't seem to work?!
Light - 450/250 makes my shrouds complete noodles, not just on the leeward shrouds but on both sides of the rig, to the point that it just does not seem feasible. Can you guys share what you find has won races in Light?
Medium/Heavy - We've also tried bumping up to 1600 for more spirited nights but find that the sail just seems to be choked. We've had better success just leaving the Base setting for these conditions. Note, there is typically a good deal of chop when the wind is here, have had limited nights with flat conditions that might warrant a tighter rig. Thoughts?
Heavy - 2000 just seems to be WAY too tight on the rig. Perhaps I'm just nervous about high tensions, I understand the rig is rated for this, but it just seems too tight. Note, in these conditions we're typically reefed as our smallest jib is a 140% (anyone have a serviceable #3 they'd like to sell, let me know)
Couple notes on our setup. Rigging is 1/4". Main is a Quantum from around 2010 era, not bagged out, one full batten three half battens. Head sail is a 161% UK from around 2010 era as well, decent condition not bagged. Second head sail is a 140% North Sail, unknown year, fair condition. We have a roller furling system installed, don't use it for racing, but head sails use the foil.
Due to different Loos Gauges (I have the Model B) out there, please use pounds (lbs) of tension in this thread if you can or clarify what gauge you are using.
Looking forward to see what can of worms I'm opening up on this topic!
In my own curiosity, and by being at home with spare time instead of being on the boat, I combed through my photos from the last month and I think I can find evidence that this strand has been broken for at least two weeks. Glad that it didn’t break further during last thursday’s weekly race 10kts puffing to 15. Lots of tension and backstay for our double-handed team.
Now I’m at the crossroads of replacing with the original spec stainless wire, or beginning the transition to Dux. One design isn’t a concern, but I’m sure there are some opinions out there on steel vs plastic! I would rather be able to visually inspect my rigging and be able to replace it myself should something fail.
This is a pretty easy replacement since it's not too high up the mast. I wouldn't risk any sailing since a shroud failure at the spreader could lead to much more dangerous (and expensive) damage to the mast.
Be careful /stay clear when you loosen the damaged shroud for removal in case it springs since you'll be right under it (and I would replace both since you're going through the trouble)
This same exact breakage just happened to me. One strand of lower shroud broken at the t ball.
#1 Did you do much sailing on it after the one strand broke?
#2 Can anyone recommend a temporary rig tune that will put less stress on the lowers? I don’t intend to go out in 15kts it more, or in swell. I’m also just running a 100% Jib this season. Would it be crazy to go out for a day sail before this is replaced?
Thanks for everyone’s input over the years on this forum. I’m in my first J30 season and appreciating all the collective knowledge.
Hi Kellen, Sounds great! I have the entire drive train so I can pull the shaft, prop and coupler and check the shaft on some v-blocks for straightness. There was no perceptible vibration on it prior to pulling (other than the usual Yanmar stuff), but I should make sure it didn't get a strap around it during the lift at Schooner Creek. Will you be in reach during your sea duty? That'll give me time to pull the sink and everything, too.
Hi Doug, Apologies for finally getting back to you - we’ve been gearing up to head out to sea for work, which turns out to be tricky in the middle of a pandemic. I’m still interested in the head sink, and am also interested in the prop and shaft assembly if it’s straight and in good shape, might be interested in your injectors too if they’re in good shape. Our final port call is in Newport, OR near the beginning of September- I could swing by on the way back up to WA to pick the things up? Let me know what you think!