I am looking for a boomkicker. Does anyone have one for sale?

One of the other options is to switch high-capacity house-battery type Group 24s on a separate circuit in the battery box and add a smaller starting-only AGM battery such as a Group 31 on a new circuit. The advantage of the AGMs is that they have very lax angle tolerances for mounting and can even be mounted sideways if need be. The Yanmar engines that J/30s use don't have terribly high cold-cranking amp needs and can definitely be started on a smaller battery. Another good option to consider is reducing your draw by converting all of the interior light fixtures to LED if you haven't already, that was some of the best money that I spent on Mondial. The insanely over-engineered spring-loaded bayonet-type halogens that come standard suck down power at something like 5-10 Amps apiece.

The reason PHRF won't accept your sail number is that it could be assigned by USSA to someone else. So... Here's a suggestion.
Apply to USSA for a sail number. Request 149 or a number that starts or ends with 149. Regardless of your official number
Apply for a PHRF cert. with your assigned sail number
When you register for a race or series advise the race Committeee that you will be racing with sails numbered 149. Unless there is another boat racing with that number you should be OK

Hi all
I'm going to make a bimini top, if anyone has a manufactured one that serves as a reference I would appreciate it

I’m in the market for a J30. I’m in VA, but boats that interest me have been up in the Northeast.
Might someone have a trailer nearby for use/rent?
Thanks-
Eddie

Hi Brad,

Good luck with your J/30 quest. It's a good choice for multiple uses, can provide many years of family fun and being a fiberglass boat, is nearly infinitely repairable if you are willing to do the work yourself.

The alternator might be your easiest fix. The 2-pin field winding connector can become intermittent. The terminals in this connector might be made of plated brass instead of plated phosphor bronze, which means that multiple un-mate and mate cycles can cause them to open up and provide less pressure against their mate. That was the case on my boat. Running the engine with a voltmeter connected to the system (large terminal on the starter, the alternator output, the battery positive, etc.) is the first step, then again while moving the connector to see if you can get the battery voltage to jump up. You might be able to fix it by somehow bending them back a little bit. Without fixing it, even a new alternator isn't going to work. If it isn't the connector, it could be the diodes which can become blown if someone shuts off the battery switch or turns the key off in certain situations before stopping the engine. These can be checked with the diode check range of a multimeter if the alternator is apart. If the alternator is still in the boat and only 1 or 2 of the 3 diodes are bad and you have access to an oscilloscope, this can be determined by looking for continuous train of small voltage peaks with an oscilloscope connected to the output terminal. Should the brushes be bad, even those can be replaced.

With regards to leaks and wet core, all of these areas should be addressed. Deck hardware mounting points, (especially those that have high loads), exhaust port and chainplate exit slots are likely spots for water ingress and eventual rot/delamination. They should be checked by tapping with a small ball peen hammer for delamination and at least epoxy isolated to prevent further problems. Those that are not yet delaminated, but you don't quite have time for, should be put on a long term list for repair. Wet deck is fairly easily cut away, ground out to a 12:1 scarf (taper), recored, replaced with new glass and non-skid. Some of the deck mounting hardware problems can be easily seen by discoloration and cracking from the inside of the boat.

Good luck!

-Chris