One of the other options is to switch high-capacity house-battery type Group 24s on a separate circuit in the battery box and add a smaller starting-only AGM battery such as a Group 31 on a new circuit. The advantage of the AGMs is that they have very lax angle tolerances for mounting and can even be mounted sideways if need be. The Yanmar engines that J/30s use don't have terribly high cold-cranking amp needs and can definitely be started on a smaller battery. Another good option to consider is reducing your draw by converting all of the interior light fixtures to LED if you haven't already, that was some of the best money that I spent on Mondial. The insanely over-engineered spring-loaded bayonet-type halogens that come standard suck down power at something like 5-10 Amps apiece.
The reason PHRF won't accept your sail number is that it could be assigned by USSA to someone else. So... Here's a suggestion. Apply to USSA for a sail number. Request 149 or a number that starts or ends with 149. Regardless of your official number Apply for a PHRF cert. with your assigned sail number When you register for a race or series advise the race Committeee that you will be racing with sails numbered 149. Unless there is another boat racing with that number you should be OK
I replaced the bilge pump this spring on Presto. I decided to purchase a new pump versus rebuilding the old one due to the low price of a new pump. In my case I bought the same pump as the one which was already in use. Copied below is the pump item number I ordered from Defender. Installation was very easy.
The key items for you will be the hose size and the mounting holes (as you already indicated). You should be able to check your current set up and determine if the pump I selected will work. If not look at the other Whale pumps and find the one which is closest to your old one.
Defender's has a good selection and offers decent pricing. I am sure other marine outlets / stores will also be able to fill your order.
Item Information Item Number Item Description Quantity Ordered Quantity Back Ordered Unit Price Total Price 500886 Whale Gusher Urchin Manual Bilge / Waste Pump 1 0 $62.24 $62.24
Alternatively it looks like the body of your pump is in good shape. You most likely can buy the rebuild kit and spend the time rebuilding the old one. My choice was limited due to a cracked case. It was also biased based on a friend who had rebuilt his bilge pump. He spent at least half a day doing so and made a mistake with the check valves the first time. The replacement route took a less than a hour.
Previous owners raced Bayamo in Buzzards Bay through the fall of 2014. I acquired her in the fall of 2016, and cruised Buzzards Bay and Long Island Sound w/ my family of 4 until last year.
Currently lying at City Island, Bronx, NY.
The boat has been very well maintained: the engine is 100% reliable, and sails and rigging are all in excellent condition. See attached for more details.
Quantum racing sails are from 2011 and 2012. Two dacron mainsails - one like new, the other we used for cruising (with reef points.)
Major improvements since we acquired the boat in the fall of 2016 include: -Re-usable canvas winter cover purchased - fall 2016 (Should last at a minimum of another 5 years, so no annual shrink-wrap cost) -New cabin cushion upholstery - spring 2017 -Fortress anchor and 30 feet of anchor chain - spring 2017 -Cruising main refurbished & reef points added - spring 2017 -Mainsail cover refurbished - spring 2017 -New house battery - spring 2017
This is a great boat to race or cruise. Please let me know if you're interested.
Good luck with your J/30 quest. It's a good choice for multiple uses, can provide many years of family fun and being a fiberglass boat, is nearly infinitely repairable if you are willing to do the work yourself.
The alternator might be your easiest fix. The 2-pin field winding connector can become intermittent. The terminals in this connector might be made of plated brass instead of plated phosphor bronze, which means that multiple un-mate and mate cycles can cause them to open up and provide less pressure against their mate. That was the case on my boat. Running the engine with a voltmeter connected to the system (large terminal on the starter, the alternator output, the battery positive, etc.) is the first step, then again while moving the connector to see if you can get the battery voltage to jump up. You might be able to fix it by somehow bending them back a little bit. Without fixing it, even a new alternator isn't going to work. If it isn't the connector, it could be the diodes which can become blown if someone shuts off the battery switch or turns the key off in certain situations before stopping the engine. These can be checked with the diode check range of a multimeter if the alternator is apart. If the alternator is still in the boat and only 1 or 2 of the 3 diodes are bad and you have access to an oscilloscope, this can be determined by looking for continuous train of small voltage peaks with an oscilloscope connected to the output terminal. Should the brushes be bad, even those can be replaced.
With regards to leaks and wet core, all of these areas should be addressed. Deck hardware mounting points, (especially those that have high loads), exhaust port and chainplate exit slots are likely spots for water ingress and eventual rot/delamination. They should be checked by tapping with a small ball peen hammer for delamination and at least epoxy isolated to prevent further problems. Those that are not yet delaminated, but you don't quite have time for, should be put on a long term list for repair. Wet deck is fairly easily cut away, ground out to a 12:1 scarf (taper), recored, replaced with new glass and non-skid. Some of the deck mounting hardware problems can be easily seen by discoloration and cracking from the inside of the boat.
#333 Breakaway Sail 31884 $13K Chicago IL 773-221-8880 9/3/2019 on Sailboat Listings: "Fast and fun racer-cruiser. Good sail inventory. Sleeps 6, and has 6' of interior headroom. Yanmar diesel engine. Very well cared-for boat. Always fresh water sailed. 2 owners. Current owner has owned boat since 1987. Topsides buffed and polished twice annually. VC17 bottom painted annually. New mainsail in 2017. Spinnaker is like new. Yanmar 2GM."