Sorry I missed your previous page. your right its starving for fuel due to an air bleed. when it dies take a fuel filter off. if it is empty then air is getting in. or you have pluged your filters. have you changed the primary on the engine? this is a common spot for an air bleed as people lose the copper washer or pinch the oring on the cup.
if you find it is air you can cheat the problem to find it by over presurising the fuel low press side and where the leak shows up is your probem. or you can put a piece of clear line on the fuel return and watch for bubles. it will stop when you find the problem.
and to help the priming I use a simple vacume pump for bleading brakes. I often end up doing this on many boats so It pays to be portable. using the simple cone on the end of the vacume line you suck the fuel up to the primary through the bleed port and then again on the HP feed to the injection pump. This will also allow you to see the bubles in the suction line if you have a bleed further up the line and saves the time on the starter. This vacume pump is cheeper than any electric lift pump.

then do the fuel flow test.

It's about time you registered here Don!

Yah I know I have been doing allot of organising here for my club and neglecting the core of the fun in the J30 fleet.
Check out my notes on the NW forum for races in our area.
you doing Saltspring and Swiftsure this year? and you should do N100

Don
When you say decompression valve do you mean for the combustion chamber? does that mean you could start the motor with no power by wraping a strap around the crank? My grandfather has an old tractor with decompression valves and you started it by turning the fly wheel by hand. Where is the valve located?

OK how do I post pictures here? ok got it. http://forums.hunter.sailboatowners...&attachmentid=28425&d=1264130610



ok wee hwo this works. the lever is next

http://forums.hunter.sailboatowners...&attachmentid=28426&d=1264131595

for the bleed procedure.

http://www.google.ca/imgres?imgurl=...s%3Disch:1&ei=mznoTMzaNYfmsQOmhPGwCw

that should show you where every thing is. Remember not to crank the engine too much with the water going as you can fill the engine with water if not properly drained in the exaust system. do this by taking the water pump belt off. but I have never needed this.

and dont crank it too much as you may over heat the starter and burn it or melt the conections on the starter. This is in extream casses.

hmm I would still prefer to post the actual image. how do you do that?

I have the original PDF for the engine and transmission.
I just do not know how to post them.

good info to have.

Many may not be aware that the Yanmar diesel has a bit of an archaic governor and you have to manually put it to full fuel (in neutral) to start it according to the book. this is because the governor springs push it back right away rather then use springs to push it to full fuel and weights to force it back to idle.

but hey its a good little motor and easy to work on and lasts forever so I will forgive them that small oversight.

do you have the QM, YM, or GM?

any way its on top at the front. its the lever on the valve cover. take some string and tie it back.
the engine will not start as long as it is pulled. as well put the engine to no fuel. just remember if bleeding you will need to put it to full fuel to bleed past the injection pump.

They may already be posted. On the J/30 menu at the top, mouse over "Info", "Articles of Interest", then click on "Diesel Engine Maintenance" - If you have a Yanmar manual that isn't there, please let me know.

Ok I have now had time to look at all the info in site. you guys have the actual maint manuals and it takes you step by step through all of this and they give you basic diagnosis.

i will be quit now. you wont need me yamering with this info in your back pocket:)

nice info. I put a copy in my tough book and it is also my nav computer.

today is a good day as i learned two new things today