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replacing wire halyard with rope, suggestions
#10952
01/19/11 07:13 PM
01/19/11 07:13 PM
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Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 203 Oxford, MI
Conundrum
OP
Senior Member
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OP
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 203
Oxford, MI
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My wire halyard has fishooks and is curled up, presumably from twisting in the furler. I would like to go to rope but I wonder about the wire sheaves. What rope will substitute?, 3/8 or must I go smaller
Don King
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Re: replacing wire halyard with rope, suggestions
[Re: Conundrum]
#10953
01/19/11 07:22 PM
01/19/11 07:22 PM
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Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,668 Portsmouth, RI
Rhapsody #348
Past J/30 Class President
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Past J/30 Class President
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,668
Portsmouth, RI
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3/8" is good. If you want low tech but good performance, try New England Ropes Sta-Set X. It has a parallel core with low stretch characteristics and costs much less than the high tech stuff. Splicing Sta Set X is a real pain, so you are better using a pro to splice on the shackle.
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Re: replacing wire halyard with rope, suggestions
[Re: Conundrum]
#10964
01/20/11 11:53 AM
01/20/11 11:53 AM
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 649 Marblehead, MA
dbows
Senior Member
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Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 649
Marblehead, MA
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A. You should have the best halyard you can afford - period. Smaller diameter the better. B. Replacing the main sheave is easy and inexpensive so you should do it.
I think it is risky to buy an expensive halyard and then find out that YOUR sheave chafes. Just because other people have not had an issue does not mean you will not.
DB
David Bows Mallorca - Hull# 397 ~~~~~_/)~_/)~~~~_/)~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~|~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~|~~~~~
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Re: replacing wire halyard with rope, suggestions
[Re: Conundrum]
#10966
01/20/11 02:54 PM
01/20/11 02:54 PM
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Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 678 Maryland, USA
Bob Rutsch
Governor at Large
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Governor at Large
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 678
Maryland, USA
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If you've been around a while, this is the same old story from me. I've been happy with the cost vs. performance, not to mention ease of stripping and splicing Dyneema or Spectra core, polyester cover lines. I'm using Samson Warp Speed and Yale Maxibraid Plus on halyards, plus NE Endura Braid for spin sheets. Have not tried VPC but it looks like a reasonable and less expensive alternative. If you do strip the cover, look for one of the newer lines that have a coated core, which should last longer without getting fuzzy.
Halyards wear near the splice and at the clutch. You can extend their life by cutting 12-18" off the shackle end and re-splicing when you start to see wear. This also relocates the wear spot of the clutch. Last winter I did my first strip cover crossover, which was easier than expected, after which the core takes a simple 12-strand eye splice. If you replace your halyards with messenger lines during the off season they'll last longer, plus it gives you a chance to inspect and do repair work.
I've seen a couple J/30s with no shackle for their main halyard. They tie what is sometimes called an Australian bowline or "snot" ("it's not a knot") a half-hitch and figure-8. Using a knot instead of a shackle guarantees wear, but when that happens you only need to cut off a couple inches from the end.
Definitely examine and if need be replace your sheaves--halyards are expensive. You can go smaller but 5/16 and 3/8 hold well in our rope clutches and are easier on the hands.
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Re: replacing wire halyard with rope, suggestions
[Re: Russ Atkinson]
#10981
01/23/11 10:45 AM
01/23/11 10:45 AM
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 111 Bellevue, WA, USA
R II
Senior Member
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Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 111
Bellevue, WA, USA
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Now, I tie the shackles on the halyards; no splice - now wear. So far no wear on the knots either. What kind of knot do you use? I use an anchor hitch that is tight to the shackle, can be worked loose if necessary, has never come loose on its own and you only have to cut about 6 inches off to retie when clutch wear becomes apparent. Anchor Hitch Link
AC
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