So Ok Mid Sept. I'm out of the water in NPT. and getting 526 ready for winter. This year I decided to drill a 1/4 inch hole in the bottom of the bilge to handle any water coming down the mast ... the boat will be shrinkwrapped, but uninspected for 6 months. I'm still pissed off from a few years ago when after i had varnished the floor, water came in and screwed that job up. Basically used a 10 in. 1/4 in. drill bit at a sharp angle from inside, and it turns out I did drill a bit through the lead.

I will redrill the hole with a 3/8 bit in June and use my favorite gray marine tex to fill it ... then if that works a year from now I will drill out the 1/4 in. as close to the same spot as I did this year with the same drill bit at the same hard angle. Also noticed puddle at bottom of mast so drilled another drain hole there.

Hope that the boatyard doesn't flood...

Haha! As a southern sailor who doesn't have these kinds of problems, this is the craziest thing I've ever heard.

I had to shows this to a few folks: "check it out - these guys are drilling holes in their boats!"

I guess you gotta do what you gotta do!

On a side note Vic, we've just added the Porsche of Naples Cup to our winter "little boat" sailing plans - don't have all the details yet, but if our schedules work out, I'd love to come crew for you while we are down there - never actually sailed another J/30.

-dan

Hey ... one more patch won't mean a thing. J30 sailors are supposed to be nonchalant about anything less than the keel falling off. (( I don't think anyone has seen that documented ))

I will see how this drain works in Jan. when I visit ... I expect to see an icicle all the way to the ground.

Vee Jay Winter 2011-12 Racing Schedule
generally we are racing crew shy Oct/Nov and March/May.

Always entertaining for us to show off our nonchalant racing of a cruising rigged J30.

Have a 19 mile run to Marco scheduled tomorrow. ~10mile spin if the wind holds NE, weather mid 80s, kind of flat, hopefully sunny if this front finishes tonight.

moving the boom photo below ... don't leave it on during the summer ... while it sits in it's slip.

Vic - it's only fitting if you are moving the boom sticking out the back, you should have the correct license plate. You need to get one of these.....

OKAY, so the idea of drilling holes is distasteful. But, How do you guys deal with the puddling at the bottom of the mast. I have just replaced the wooden floor there and am very concerned about the water that accumulates there too. The little hole to the bilge is not that far fetched. Other ideas?

I put a very small 120V fan down by the head, pointing in the direction of the mast base and the transducer access hatch (which I leave open). Figure that the water will come in, but it will dry very quickly.

I also run a AC (summer) and a Dehu (winter) full time, so it stays pretty dry in there.

Did you redo the teak/holly sole yourself?

The Teak and Maple (originally Holly) at the base of the mast I have done myself. Purcased the wood at the Woodcraft store. I glued (epoxied) the Maple to the Teak first then epoxied each in place and screwed each to hold. I will plug, sand and finish with 6 coats of Goldspar satin. the main cabin was done this Summer. I love the look. So does wife.

interesting to use Maple ... I was never impressed with how Holly seems to go bad fast. You have better feeling for Maple?

it always seems that the white woods don't have the lasting power of teak

I think the answer lies in how dry the wood can be kept. Holly is way more expensive than Maple. Both require you buy a significant piece.
A good seal at the bottom and the surface will go far. I almost wish that i had completely coated all the surfaces with the epoxy resin. I did not. I only used it ti bond the pieces together.
I sure would like to seal the mast better. The headstay sheave box is a big rain scoop. the drain is forward of the step and the mast water sits aft of the drain. Your little hole there looks inviting.

roger, roger on maple ...

Hole was drilled there because when they put it in the cradle for the winter they were a degree or two port. and at that point there is only a thin fiberglass layer. so I drilled through the deepest part of the puddle at a 45 degree angle, drained right out. I think that is the only easy place to put a hole at the maststep.

I have the original teak and holly pretty badly rotted out in the head, but what I did was pour on penetrating epoxy ... with the only objective to seal up what was left. Antiques don't have to be perfect ... in fact they tell me a lot of obvious use adds value.

But then again "they" tell me a lot of things.

I, too, had rotted teak and holly in the head area. I chiseled it all out and cleaned the area thoroughly. I found a piece of teak and holly veneer that a friend of mine had left over from a J37 floor replacement job. Took the piece, cut it to size, epoxied it top and bottom and then varnished. I then took some West G-Flex epoxy and smeared it on the floor. Put the veneer on top of it and took a bunch of long, flexible strapping board and bent them between the ceiling of the head and the veneer. Put some wider boards under the bottom of the strapping, thereby giving a broader contact service. Left the setup overnight and was as good as new in the morning. Looks great. I also have a small hole drilled directly behind the mast step to let water drain into the bilge. It can be easily cleaned out with a small phillips-head screwdriver.

I haven't drilled a hole through the hull from the bilge but I used to own a Pearson Ensign and I had that arrangement. Installed a plug with a set screw so it was easy to install and remove each year.


Bob Rude
Mmmmm
#352

so ok ... mid Jan update on drilling hole in bilge ... I expected to see an icicle but instead appears to be working drain.