Was climbing the mast to switch out a wind instrument this weekend when I discovered the attached. Pretty scary given that the mast was holding me up at at the time.

My rigging was all redone about 2 years ago and I am 99.9999% sure that there was a cotter pin in that pin at that time. I see no evidence of the cotter pin being sheared. Really cannot figure out how it could have worked out but am tremendously glad I found this before the next sail.

SO I have a lot of questions:

-Does anyone know what size pin holds up the forestay? I want to replace it.
-What is the proper cotter pin and size that should hold that pin in place? Big ring-ding? Standard cotter pin?
-the metal on the side of the exit box that is still holding the forestay up is slightly bent, should I be worried?

And finally - how the hell could a big cotter pin just come out like that???

Right now all is stabilized. I've got two halyards winched down on deck forward, and the 3rd securing the forestay so it doesn't fall if it gives. I plan to loosen the forestay an inch or two then go back up to put the pin back in and re-secure.

-Dan

According to Rig-Rite web page it uses a 3/8" pin. Size the cotter pin for the pin you use.

As long as the you can get the pin through the holes in the sheave box for the toggle, I wouldn't worry about it being bent.

I remember a cotter pin on a J24 disappearing ... but I'm thinking it was not SS and just coroded out and left a little bit of rust stain. got to be real careful with cotter pins. The pin below it is cottered the way most riggers like to do pins so the ends don't catch anything.

There are two sizes of pins used in that box. most originals were 3/8s but my replacement box was 1/2in. on 505 ...
[SS Jib Box Assembly w/ 3/8" or 1/2" Pin: K-10658**D:] The rigging companies generaly use a 1/2 in at the stem and 3/8s at the box ... don't know why that is engineered like that.

just buy one of each and return the one you can't use or take a 99% chance that it's a 3/8 but it does look a bit bigger that the pin directly under it. which should be 3/8s. for the top of the forestay.

re bend ... I've used a c-clamp to "straighten" bent stuff ... bigger clamps are better with say a 2x4 on the straight side to keep that from distorting too much, perhaps on both sides.
related link on halyard box

if you haven't had that box out to look at the insides ... it might be something to think about next time you have the mast out.

With the pin removed, see if the hole for the pin is elongated (oval). If so, the new pin will point load, increasing the risk of failure. You would then need to redrill and upsize the cotter pin or replace the sheave box.

Why the toggle? Seems like just another potential point of failure.

Funny you should ask - I lost a forestay ~3 years ago during an overnight race. Sailed for probably 9 hours in 15-20 and steep chop on starboard. Tacked over to port at dawn and about one minute later - BAM!

Luff rope (had a heavy sail on) kept the mast up while we secured it. The top swage fitting broke right in the middle. Got 100% new rigging at that time.

Rigger said LACK of toggle caused the failure. The break looked like someone cutting down a tree, like you were chopping at one side for an hour, then one whack on the other took it down.

-dan

Oh - and don't think I haven't been wondering: could the mast have gone up w/o a cotter and I just have been lucky for last few years?