I would like to change the mast foot blocks (pulleys) of my J30.
Currently there is old (original) mast foot blocks on the bottom of the mast. There are blocks for metallic cable (steel wire cable), there are "V" shapped. But the halyard are currently ropes, not metallic cable. As a consequence, the blocks are not good for the current halyard, this make more rubbing and will wear out ropes faster.
Moreover, I want all tunings (settings) return to the cockpit : reef one, reef two, main halyard, genoa halyard 1, genoa halyard 2, spinnaker halyard, spinnaker pole downhaul, spinnaker pole uphaul, main pole downhaul... To do that, I need a lot of mast foot blocks. And I would like some good blocks like Harken blocks.
Consequently, I am thinking of changing the old mast foot blocks.
I think of 2 possible solution : 1- put it on the mast 2- put it on the deck
On the mast, I need rivets and the tool to put rivets (I don't have it but it con be borrowed) ..but it will weaken the mast. On the deck, it will weaken the deck (risk to lift it), I must put reinforcement plate under it.
What is the best solution according to you ?
Thanks !!
Marie
(I'm french speaking, if I use bad word you can correct me !! I don't know technical sailling vocabulary !)
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Your English is much better than my French so no worries!
You should not attach halyard turning blocks to the deck as it is not designed to withstand the loads from the halyards. Riveting the blocks to the mast is the proper location.
If you go to the menu at the top of the forum, mouse over "Market", then click on "Equipment Suppliers". This will provide a listing with links for many suppliers where you can get replacement parts. The supplier you want for replacement blocks is Rig-Rite Inc. Here is a direct link to the Rig-Rite page. The entire Halyard Turning Block Assembly part number K-10865 is shown below. Perhaps you can contact Rig-Rite to see if they will sell just the Sheaves so you don't need to replace the entire turning block.
We lead everything back on the Vee Jays. yes it is a lot of blocks and we lash them to the bottom of the mast. but during full crew sailing the spin halyards [we have two], and pole topping lift are used at the mast.
random thoughts:
Before you start major work like this try lashing spare blocks where you think you are going to need them, and then try it out ... it rarely works like you would think, and a waste of effort if you are going to drill into the mast and find out the position doesn't work.
1. I suggest you just change out the sheaves on the existing turning blocks. ... that gives you 2 jib halyards on port, main, reef1 and spin halyard on starboard. standard sheaves and pins can be used, but a bit of a problem to get the old pins out.
Then you have to start thinking about 2 high deck organizers... or fiddle blocks attached to a slide on the blade track which is what we do. and then we use harken 150 cam cleats.
Fiddle blocks at the bottom of the mast work better than double blocks or my recent mistake of trying a tripple block ... a tripple is just all bad.
2. the biggest mistake they ever made on J24s was to mount turning blocks to the deck.
3. also cunningham ... and main outhaul should be on list.
4. we have seen the vang switched so that it locks up at the boom instead of at the foot of the mast.
5. what you need to figure out is just how many lines go on each side and which is logical for your crew.
It is really nice off shore to not have to send someone forward to do simple adjustments.
I was precisely thinking of J24 blocks on the deck when I talked about putting it on the deck, but if you said that's bad, I believe you ! In fact there is no reinforcement on the J24's deck, that's the problem. But I was thinking of a reinforcement with a cable and turnbuckle from the blocks on deck to the mast in the interior of the boat (difficult to explain with english words !! but it is a common system on racing boats.)
Cap'n Vic, do you have a picture of Vee Jay mast foot ?
We lead everything back on the Vee Jays. yes it is a lot of blocks and we lash them to the bottom of the mast. but during full crew sailing the spin halyards [we have two], and pole topping lift are used at the mast.
random thoughts:
Before you start major work like this try lashing spare blocks where you think you are going to need them, and then try it out ... it rarely works like you would think, and a waste of effort if you are going to drill into the mast and find out the position doesn't work.
1. I suggest you just change out the sheaves on the existing turning blocks. ... that gives you 2 jib halyards on port, main, reef1 and spin halyard on starboard. standard sheaves and pins can be used, but a bit of a problem to get the old pins out.
Then you have to start thinking about 2 high deck organizers... or fiddle blocks attached to a slide on the blade track which is what we do. and then we use harken 150 cam cleats.
Fiddle blocks at the bottom of the mast work better than double blocks or my recent mistake of trying a tripple block ... a tripple is just all bad.
2. the biggest mistake they ever made on J24s was to mount turning blocks to the deck.
3. also cunningham ... and main outhaul should be on list.
4. we have seen the vang switched so that it locks up at the boom instead of at the foot of the mast.
5. what you need to figure out is just how many lines go on each side and which is logical for your crew.
It is really nice off shore to not have to send someone forward to do simple adjustments.
Hello Cap'n Vic !
Where do you put all these turning blocks ?... I know... on the mast... but where on the mast ? The old halyard turning blocks take all the space on the mast. If we put other blocks above, it will be too high. Below, there is not enough space, owing to mast boot. It's like a puzzle, I don't find solution !
OK ... so remember this is experimental ... and I have been experimenting for several years to try to get two boats same, same, but best configuration of stuff led back. and still experimenting. Problem is that in Naples we seem to come into slip needing to secure on port, and in Newport we like to come into mooring with a secure on stbd. So roller furling is on opposite sides.
After heavy season use in Naples ... no real wear on 3/8s although i use a new spare piece every year and it always seems to be a different length so it has extra turns etc.
currently attached is vang, cunningham, cunningham anchor, and outhaul. In front we have a block which we use as a turning block for the spin topping lift so that we pull up rather than pull down to raise the pole.
I am going down this week to photograph the deck in Naples to see what my problem is with the deck in Newport where I seem to have a couple of extra cam cleats all of a sudden.
but I had double rope clutches here and triples there ... which is what seems to have caused some of my problems. Good think i have painted deck ... just patch and touch up.
I never think of puttings blocks on a rope. But it seems to work well for you. I will think about it, I would rather pop padeyes on the mast, but there is not a lot of space for it. Your solution solves the problem, but it's not usual !