I am considering a project this coming winter to replace the original DC Electrical panel and replace the boat electrical harness. This is driven by the following:

1. The original wiring installed by TPI was not marine grade "tinned". The wire has oxidized and corroded over time. When the insulation is stripped to re-terminate a connection, all the conductors are covered in black. You can't scrape these easily to make a good connection.

2. The fuse connections and toggle switches on the DC panel have a noticeable voltage drop with any sort of current draw. This is a symptom of oxidized contacts.

3. I've added some custom accessories as many have done that require circuit protection and the ability to isolate. Examples of things added are Stereo, Autohelm, Macerator pump, 12V accessory outlets and various navigation instruments.

4. Illuminated circuit breakers are much easier to read and are nicer than having to carry a bunch of different size fuses.

I have asked Paneltronics of Hialeah Gardens, FL to quote a semi-custom DC panel. Additionally I asked that they send mechanical dimensions for an existing Model 5203 panel with 50amp master breaker, meters and eleven circuit breakers of different capacity matched to the loads I've specified and labeled to my specs. The panel is 9.75" tall and 11" wide. Here is a generic picture of the panel.


Based on my correspondence with Paneltronics, they indicated they are aware that Lorco, the original J/30 electrical panel manufacturer is out of business. I've asked Paneltronics if they would be willing to quote a standard J/30 drop in replacement panel that uses circuit breakers rather than the toggle switches and fuses. I also suggested that they could offer the "standard" panel replacement, and the custom panel, similar to what I am having quoted. The custom panel would not be drop in compatible as the dimensions would be different and require a different size cutout.

Question - is there interest by J/30 owners for either type of these panels? If so, we may be able to get a quantity pricing discount.

For what it's worth...

About ten years ago I bought an 8-gang circuit breaker panel from Bass Industries in CT. There were no LEDs or LCDs on the panel. The reasons for the change were exactly what Bill mentioned. I had the yard install the panel and do the rewiring of it and a KVH digital compass. The total cost was somewhere around $1000.

My present panel has the following switches:

1. cabin lights
2. steaming light
3. running lights
4. autopilot
5. vhf radio
6. foredeck light
7. gps
8. instruments

In retrospect, I wish I had a few extra switches in case I wanted to add anything. Nevertheless, I'm glad I made the switch when I did. I think with a little time and effort, a multimeter, some appropriate 16 gauge wires of the appropriate color, and a second set of hands, the average handyman could make the changeover.

While you're at it, replace your interior lights with LEDs and do the same with your running lights.

Thanks, Bill.

Bob Rude

Great timing. I've been reading various postings (ground & fuse) as I troubleshoot balky fuses, navigation lights, intermittent speed/depth instruments, and now difficult starting even with fully charged batteries. Daunting task mid-season with temps above 90 to spend a half day below sorting out electrical problems. Maybe wait until after the Fall season ends to rip it out and start over.

Very nice Bill. Bob, what model LEDs do you reoommend down below? I have LEDs externally already - love em'...

I was looking at the Bluesea 8068 as a replacement panel 10.5" x 7.5" and a complete rewire for the same reasons.

Koos - I looked at that but what I didn't like was it came with all the breakers at 15amp rating. By the time I bought the desired breakers to swap out the various circuits, the cost runs pretty high. My breaker requirements are from 5 to 30 amps and outlined at this link

Don't seem to have quite the corrosion problems in freshwater.

I'd be interested in how much a panel would cost though

I'd be interested for the right price. What I am scared of is the re-wire that I know needs to be done. I suppose it isn't as bad as other boats but it does not seem easy feeding a new wire harness through the interior fittings!

William Montes from Paneltronics has registered on the forum and will be offering suggestions and answering questions for electrical panel alternatives. He sent me an email about a different panel model 2206 that has a single meter and is slightly smaller at 11" W x 8.25" H.



I've asked William if it is possible for the single meter to be a multimeter with a switch to select voltage and current monitoring. I've also asked if there could be a switch position for "off" so the meter is disconnected to prevent current drain.

I plan on taking measurements and pictures of the current Lorco panel so that he can work on a quote for a drop in replacement that many J/30 owners might be interested in.

Strange coincidence ! The last days I was thinking about re-wiring all the electrical system of the boat and changing pieces on the electrical panel.

Moreover, I am installing a BlueSea multimeter to monitor current and voltage.

It's a pity, my multimeter is already bought. So I won't need one on the panel.

I wonder if Paneltronics will be able to put the "J30" logo on the new panel ?