Anyone know the OD status of synthetics for life lines? Un-coated wire? Lashed end fittings vs. turnbuckes?
Has anyone had experience with synthetic life lines?
I have read the rules and find no mention and the last discussion I found was 2004...

Jeff,

The J/30 Class Rules were changed in 2004 to remove the wire requirement for lifelines. If you use stainless steel wire, they are required to be uncoated. The reference that the class rules use is the ISAF Offshore Special Regulations - Category 4 for monohulls. Specifically in the 2012 edition extract for Category 4

Language & Abbreviations Used
Mo - Monohull
Mu - Multihull
" ** " means the item applies to all types of yacht in all categories except 5 for which see Appendix J or 6 for which see Appendix L.
RED TYPE indicates a significant changes in 2012
Guidance notes and recommendations are in italics

3.14.6 Lifeline Minimum Diameters, Required Materials, Specifications
a) Lifelines shall be of : **
- stranded stainless steel wire or
- Single-braided High Modulus Polyethylene (HMPE) (Dyneema®/Spectra® or
equivalent) rope
b) The minimum diameter is specified in table 8 below. **
c) Stainless steel lifelines shall be uncoated and used without close-fitting sleeving, **
however, temporary sleeving may be fitted provided it is regularly removed for inspection.
d) When stainless wire is used, Grade 316 is recommended. **
e) When HMPE (Dyneema®/Spectra®) is used, it shall be spliced in accordance with the manufacturer's recommended procedures. **
f) A taut lanyard of synthetic rope may be used to secure lifelines provided the gap it **
closes does not exceed 100 mm (4 in). This lanyard shall be replaced annually at a minimum.
g) All wire, fittings, anchorage points, fixtures and lanyards shall comprise a lifeline
enclosure system which has at all points at least the breaking strength of the required lifeline wire. **

TABLE 8 **
LOA // minimum wire or rope diameter
under 8.5 m (28ft) // 3 mm (1/8 in)
8.5m - 13 m // 4 mm (5/32 in)
over 13 m (43 ft) // 5 mm (3/16 in)

Thanks Bill,
That answers all of my questions in spades!
Happy New Year to you and all J/30 sailors world wide.
Jeff

My sailmaker said that, contrary to the Sailing World article,that by the time splices and fittings were included, Dynema was more expensive than steel cable. It also needed to be replaced every 3 years, because of UV degradation.

Jeff - you are the 3rd person I've heard from that reached the same conclusion. Uncoated 316 stainless appears to be the most cost effective solution.

Comment - I am having stainless tubes welded in the stanchion holes the wire passes through to minimize chaffe and get rid of the plastic inserts. That should help increase the longevity of any life line.

Has anyone tried using a flairing tool to flair tubes into the stancions?
I don't know how one works, but a flaired tube should cut down chafe even more.

Horse-potatoes! More frequent replacement is an additional cost, but a monkey can splice single braid dyneema by the manufacturer's instruction. If you are wanting gates, yes it is a little more complicated but you get to re-use those every time. Without the gates, it's a splice on each end with a thimble and tension with a strong cut-away lashing. Bob's your uncle.

As rope goes, Dyneema is quite UV resistant so I suspect that it may have a lifespan of more than 3 years, especially down to the minimum breaking strength required for lifelines. The pull/pushpit is likely to break before 1/4" Dyneema.

This I am very interested in as the plastic liners are breaking out of my stanchions and need a chafe free option before a switch the lowers to dyneema

The best solution for either 1*19 stainless or rope is to have stainless tubes welded in the stantions its not that expensive and fixes the problem for ever

Search "push in grommets" at McMaster-Carr (mcmaster.com). A great resource.