Has anyone replace portlights? If so is it a doit yourself fabrication or is there a kit? Any info helpful

I have hull #92 Now know as Simply Red in Washington State.

I just replaced the original portlights a couple weeks ago. I bought a 4' x 4' x 1/4" polycarbonate sheet (tinted grey). I removed the old windows and used them as a template for new ones. I cut the sheet on a bandsaw, sanded the edges and installed the new portlights with bedding compound. I even had enough polycarbonate to make a new top companionway slide. Total cost - about $60 and 3 hours labor (I haven't finished the new slide yet)

Ed Austin
Chinook
447

I did the same process on Mondial. One other suggestion ... check out the plastics supplier's scrap bin. I did that and found some cut-offs that could be trimmed to the correct size. I think that I paid about $10.00 for the sheet material. I used a table saw for the long cuts, then rounded the corners with a belt sander. I also replaced the lenses in the small deck hatches. IIRC, used a slightly thicker material than the original, then beveled the edges a bit.

In my experience, the portlights are gently flexed to slightly convex shape when installed. Not obvious until they are completely goopy and won't stay in place. Prepare a way to hold them in before applying the sealer. I used two pieces of 2x4, wedged between portlight and lifeline. Good luck.

Bill Kimbell, J/30 Crescendo

Three years ago I replaced my portlights also. I went down to the local glass shop with the old ones as templates and had them make up new ones out of tinted automotive safety glass. Cost 7 bucks each. No bend but no problem. They don't stick out at all and I haven't had to touch them since, plus I can still see clearly through them with no scratches.

I replaced the windows last summer after receiving some advice from several J30er's.
I used the same windows. The inside seal was still reasonable good. Therefore I removed the windows and put a bedding of Life-Seal ( this was recommended by out boat yard and others). The put the windows in place. The used masking tape on the outside and bedded again with Life Seal. The masking tape will give a nice clean line. Wet fingers used to press and seal.
All came out well and have had no leaks, including after the Chicago winter.

We have replaced both portlights and hatch dead lights. We used bronze plexi as this has a dark black colour and alows a bit more privacy. We used the old for templates then applied butyl tape on the fiberglass flange then pushed the windows into place. The windows were trimmed approx 1/4 smaller than the coachhouse opening. We then applied a bead of highgrade black silicone around the perimeter of the windows in the remaining gap. This has proven to be a very effective installation. The butyl and silicone may be aquired at an automotive glass installer.

What is the purpose of the butyl tape that you applied to the flange?

This holds the plexi in place and allows some movement while the silicone seals around the edges.

I just finish replacing the windows on Mmmmm. Once I cut the silicone and pushed the old plexiglass ones out, I took them to my local glass shop. I had them cut to the pattern using bronze-tint safety glass. The total came to $80.00 including tax. Clear glass would have been three dollars per window cheaper. I then sanded the openings to remove all old silicone. Since there were some chips in the fiberglass around the recesses, I built up new lips using Marine-Tex. That, too, was sanded. The entire area was then wiped down with acetone. Mask off the inside and outside of the cabin top. Also mask off the outside AND the inside of the glass. Use a high-grade white silicone and bed the recessed area. Push the glass into place. Using a rubber glove, dip your finger in a soapy water solution and drag your finger around the inside and outside of the glass to form a nice smooth bead. Let the silicone set up for a few minutes and then carefully pull the masking tape off (I used the blue 3M tape). You'll have a sweet clean line and the boat looks like it just came off the production line.

Hope this helps those of you who are considering this upgrade. It makes the boat look great. Yes, the forward cabin window has a slight curvature to it but the recessed glass fits in perfectly and you'll never notice it's straight.