Honestly, I've been "refitting" since I got the boat. But the past couple weeks I've been working to majorly improve the boat's systems (as opposed to the sailing characteristics). My TODO list is lengthy:

• Renew all blackwater hoses and clean the old holding tank.
• Replace the old broken head with an electric macerating unit.
• Renew all freshwater hoses and install a new filter and water pressure pump.
• Replace all freshwater fixtures, new galley sink drain, new head sink.
• Install new propane galley stove.
• Install Espar D4 heater and run ducting to main saloon & v-berth.
• Install a holding plate/compressor refrigeration unit in the icebox.
• Replace old electrical panel and clean up the rats nest of wiring.
• Install AIS splitter/receiver.
• Install new 120VAC system with galvanic isolation and battery charger.
• Replace old clouded windows with new opening portlights.
• Replace head and main saloon 9.5x9.5 hatches with new (v-berth hatch already replaced).
• Re-paint blue accent along main cabin roof.
• Apply Kiwigrip for non-skid for entire main deck.

Progress is already well underway - I'm lucky enough to have my dad visiting from Virginia and helping me with the major tasks. Thus far we've completed the blackwater work (ew), the freshwater work (mostly), and are working on installing the propane stovetop, the Espar heater and the portlights.

I'll post pictures as we progress!

Lots of pictures from the progress so far:

Old head before removal:


Head removed, hoses stuffed with rags:


More plumbing removal:


Holding tank removed from v-berth and cleaned:


New head hoses with new vented loop:


Holding tank replaced with new hoses attached:


New deck fitting for pump out:


Fitting the new head:


New head installed:


New head hooked up (no power yet though!):

Minor repairs to starboard traveler attachment (balsa was all rotted out):


Exhaust hole filled after old Force 10 diesel heater removed from main saloon bulkhead:


Freshwater tank cleaning in progress:


Freshwater hose removal:


New water pump and filter hookup:


The main saloon gets pretty messy while we're working on it:

Removing old jib tracks from the deck (all unused, sheets are led to blocks attached to padeyes now):



Balsa core under the aft portside track was pretty rotted, and the fiberglass had even collapsed in from overtightening. Reaming it out:


The aftermath:


Prepping the diesel tank inspection hatch with new holes for fuel sending unit and Espar fuel pickup (easier to drill the hatch than the tank):


Inspection hatch with new hardware fitted:


Same treatment for the freshwater tank - sending unit holes drilled:

Enlarging the main saloon windows to make room for the new portlights:


New portlights fit from outside:


And from inside:


New stove and faucet fitting:


First test of pressurized water system (no more foot pump!):

I feel the same way. Velocity Girl has been a work in progress since I bought her too. I have rebuilt the transom literally all new, fixed coring issues in the deck, regripped, new hoses throughout the boat, done woodwork inside and out, had the boom repaired, new running rigging all the way around, new sails, refit the stainless steel rails and stanchions with all new backing plates, rewired big parts of the electrical system, and barrier coated the bottom all since 2007. I have a list a mile long for this spring too... I feel your pain but they really are great boats play on! Good luck with all your projects!

Canaan
Velocity Girl #278

Velocity Girl is an awesome name, fyi.

I love the J/30 design. I've looked at and seen for sale boats that are faster, or more comfortable, or more luxurious, or in better condition than mine. But I've yet to find anything that's comparable across the board - the J/30 is fast enough to be exciting, sturdy enough to handle the conditions here in San Francisco, comfortable enough for friends and family to enjoy, roomy and well-appointed enough for overnight trips and weekend cruises, and good looking enough to stand out along a crowded dock.

So I continue to invest in Ananda and make every hour I'm aboard all that much more enjoyable.

Alex,

Your project progress looks great! I would reassess removing the jib tracks. Even if you don't use them now, they provide much flexibility for sheeting angles and other sails. You can isolate the core and reinstall them. There is no need to leave the jib cars on them if you plan on using the pad eyes.

Progress continues slowly - the hardest part of this job has been the logistics of all the little fasteners, epoxy, tubes of sealant, and other bits that tend to hold up the works when they run out. There is a chandlery down the street but it's minimally stocked, so weekend trips to West Marine have become the norm.

Here's my girlfriend Crystal filling the big deck holes with thickened epoxy:


Applying the Marine-Tex to the windows:


One of two small hatches mounted as the sun goes down. This one ventilates the head compartment (very important!). On the right you can see my terrible mounting job for the spinnaker halyard block from last year, due for relocation as I brilliantly placed it right in the weakest spot of the deck.


In the port lazarette, mounting the support brace for the Espar heater:


And the exhaust flange location marked on the transom (putting it 20" or so above waterline at 0 deg heel):


Inspection hatch installed back on the tank with new gasket and all hardware mounted:




I was never happy with the location of the tracks - they didn't provide any good options for sheeting with my current sailplan (95% blade jib). I'm considering adding a 125% or 135% genoa for lighter air, and I'll likely mount a new track in an optimum location if I go that route.

Spent all day yesterday putting this together. From left to right: house battery switch, charging relay, engine battery switch. The house battery runs through a shunt which measures current in and out.

One of the white cables carries the remote signals for the switches & ACR, the other carries data for the Vessel Systems Monitor on the new panel (shunt measurements, voltage, and temperature).

If there's a problem with any of the remote switch connections, the whole setup can be switched manually with the yellow knobs on the tops of the relays.

This replaces my off/1/2/combine battery switch.