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thru-hulls and seacocks #6091
12/15/03 03:04 PM
12/15/03 03:04 PM
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 67
kansas city, mo
J
jezabelle Offline
Senior Member
jezabelle  Offline
Senior Member
J
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 67
kansas city, mo
I removed my seacocks and thru-hulls from hull #27 and the laminate/ coring is dry . Someone has filled the coring appropriately in the past. My question is should I replace the seacocks and thru-hull fittings if they are 25 years old? The ball valve has some minor pitting on the ball part of the valve but they are definitely working . I realize Marelon is much lighter but is it made to last another 25 years? My thru hulls are flush type which I like-- even though they have been criticized in the past.
clint

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Re: thru-hulls and seacocks #6092
12/15/03 03:18 PM
12/15/03 03:18 PM
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 148
Princeton Junction, NJ
S Hunter Offline
Senior Member
S Hunter  Offline
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 148
Princeton Junction, NJ
Hi Clint,
I wouldn't replace them if the housings are in good shape. Mine were fine but I replaced the barbed thru-hulls with seacocks and backing blocks (I don't like thru-hulls you can't close). Personally, I also favor metal fittings below the WL but have not heard of plastic ones failing. BTW - I noticed quite a bit of corrosion in the baffle of my mixing elbow (raw water cooled). Not a good scenario if that corrodes through. Anyone had one of those fail?
Seth

Re: thru-hulls and seacocks #6093
12/16/03 10:55 AM
12/16/03 10:55 AM
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 67
kansas city, mo
J
jezabelle Offline
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jezabelle  Offline
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J
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 67
kansas city, mo
I noted corrosion at my keel -probably 30 bubbles 3-5mm in diameter. I removed the paint and there was oxidized lead. This is the first year after fairing the keel and applying barrier coat and antifouling to the keel. It may be from stray currents of neighboring boats . I did not leave the boat plugged in this year except for the weeekends I was there(8 weekends). I am installing a Zinc to the propeller shaft to hopefully alleviate the corrosion of the keel

Re: thru-hulls and seacocks #6094
12/20/03 02:00 PM
12/20/03 02:00 PM

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Anonymous OP
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My mixing elbow coroded and cracked to the point that it was leaking exhaust. I ended up fabricating something out of pipe fittings that seems to work OK. I would imagine you can buy a replacement elbow though somewhere. Using pipe fittings isn't perfect - for one thing I could not get the correct fittings to match the exhaust hose so I ended up wrapping the one fitting with fiberglass tape to make up the size difference so the hose would seal around it properly.

Re: thru-hulls and seacocks [Re: jezabelle] #16170
03/26/15 07:47 AM
03/26/15 07:47 AM
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 27
Cape Elizabeth, ME
Kinesis497 Offline
Senior Member
Kinesis497  Offline
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Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 27
Cape Elizabeth, ME
Hi All, I was wondering how to go about the first step of removing the old thru-hulls. It seems like they are bedded so well that it would destroy the surrounding fiberglass trying to get them out. I'd like to remove ours on Kinesis and recore around the fitting and add seacocks to the ones that don't have them. Any thoughts would be great. Thanks, Sam

Re: thru-hulls and seacocks [Re: jezabelle] #16171
03/26/15 08:25 AM
03/26/15 08:25 AM
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,668
Portsmouth, RI
Rhapsody #348 Offline
Past J/30 Class President
Rhapsody #348  Offline
Past J/30 Class President
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,668
Portsmouth, RI
Sam,

When I recored Rhapsody I found that they were fused with the skin. Not sure if it was epoxy or 5200 they were put in with. I ended up reusung the engine intake by leaving the outer skin and valve in place. The inner skin and core were ground out, epoxy isolated and new inner glass skin applied.

If you are replacing them and they look "permanent" I would cut around it using a hole saw from the outside and go straight through. Bevel the outer edge then glass on a new skin and fair it. Fill the void from the inside with thickened epoxy, and slap on a couple layers of glass. You now have a solid epoxy isolated area to drill for the new through hull and sea cock.

Re: thru-hulls and seacocks [Re: jezabelle] #16183
03/30/15 10:00 PM
03/30/15 10:00 PM
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 63
Westerly, RI
Chris623 Online content
Senior Member
Chris623  Online Content
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 63
Westerly, RI
Hi Sam,

Bill makes a good point - some of these are very well bonded. Some are not however. Some are isolated, some are not, and some are still a mystery to me, so let us know what you find if you dig into them!

Here is the list of my findings:

- Head intake seacock and transducers: Solid FRP with caulking. By applying enough torque, I was able to remove them and I replaced them with new ones.
- Engine intake seacock: Solid FRP and gel coat with a taper to match the flush thru hull. This was caulked very well, but penetrated by a broken self tapping screw, likely related to the engine strainer, which I have now removed. I was not able to remove either the seacock body or the thru-hull, so I put a Perko rebuild kit in and removed the thru hull by first separating the flush portion from the threaded tube with an end mill held at 45 degrees, then a cold chisel. The threaded tube was easily unthreaded once the head was removed. The screw hole will be filled next month with thickened epoxy, and a new thru hull will be installed with 4200 caulking, faired, barrier coated and painted.
- Transom deck drains, bilge pump and exhaust: un-isolated balsa core. Very much worth epoxy isolating if not done so already, especially the exhaust.
- Anchor locker drain, head discharge, and two sink discharges: Unknown. I made toroid shaped 5/8" white oak pieces which I sealed up in epoxy and bonded to the roughed up inner hull with 5200, then added flanged seacocks as I was required to for insurance purposes (given that they are below the heeled waterline). For the anchor locker, I special ordered a Forespar Marelon 932263N right angled seacock.

This anchor locker drain is a tough location due to the depth of the anchor well and the height of the through hull. The original right angle adapter to the hose had a cut back barb, which was barely long enough for a clamp, clearly since the short hose is hard to install. The Forespar solution is is ok, but if the bow is slightly low in the winter, water will collect here. My solution was to put antifreeze in it and blue tape up the locker door to insure against a failed tarp. I'm glad that I went through these steps - as luck would have it, the tarp did well last winter!

Good luck,

-Chris

[Linked Image]

Attached Files
Boat_AnchorLockerSeacock_cr.jpg [18.74 KBytes] - (678 downloads)
Anchor Locker Seacock
Re: thru-hulls and seacocks [Re: Chris623] #16203
04/13/15 06:26 PM
04/13/15 06:26 PM
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 179
Apponaug Rhode Island
S
sonskyn Offline
Senior Member
sonskyn  Offline
Senior Member
S
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 179
Apponaug Rhode Island
yesterday I had the pleasure of pulling out the head, holding tank, macerator pump, valves and hoses and was wondering how to remove the overboard discharge seacock which is big and glassed in. Bill's suggestion to use a hole saw makes perfect sense. Thank you!

Re: thru-hulls and seacocks [Re: jezabelle] #16207
04/14/15 03:18 PM
04/14/15 03:18 PM
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 27
Cape Elizabeth, ME
Kinesis497 Offline
Senior Member
Kinesis497  Offline
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 27
Cape Elizabeth, ME
Thanks everyone. I've had some good luck with the 3 thru hulls ( 2 sink drains and anchor locker) that have no seacocks. They all came out with just some rigorous coaxing. The previous owner had recored them, saved me that step and now I just need to add some seacocks and base plates to the thru hulls.

Chris, I like your anchor locker solution. I'll look for that Forespar fitting online.

Sam

Re: thru-hulls and seacocks [Re: Kinesis497] #16208
04/14/15 06:32 PM
04/14/15 06:32 PM
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 63
Westerly, RI
Chris623 Online content
Senior Member
Chris623  Online Content
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 63
Westerly, RI
Hi Sam,

If you plan to keep the bronze thru-hull for the anchor locker seacock, you have to order it directly from Forespar. The price was $73 two years ago.

"The valves you are interested in can be ordered using part number 932263N, which will delete the thruhull and change the valve base from buttress thread to NPT "straight" pipe thread."

"The 93 series of valves is a newer design and can be assembled with NPT Straight Threads by just adding an
N to the end of any of the six digit parts number shown..."

Contact them and they will send you an order form.

-Chris

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