I've researched but, once again,

1. If you could re-configure your traveler set-up, what would you do?

2. If anyone has a harken windward car, what model fits our track?

3. Are the sheaves in our original cars replaceable?

I have alot of ideas but I'm leaning toward a continuous loop, with double cheek blocks on the end with double cam cleats vertical and horizontal, so i could lock, unlock from either side. Please all input is appreciated.

The guys flush with money (like David Erwin with Rampage's rebuild) paid the big bucks for the Harken winward traveler. :-)

David - what model number did you use?

I re-used the Harken traveler that was double ended and reran the lines to make it a continuous loop. The cam cleats are mounted close to the edge of the combing and angled so they can be tripped from either side by pulling the loop. The ends of the line have eye splices and attach to shackles where the main sheet attaches to the traveler. The lines start at the shackle, outboard to double block on end of traveler, inboard to double block on traveler, repeated again, then out through a fairlead to the cam cleat. The loop then crosses over and does the same thing on opposite side in reverse.

Some people use a similar setup starting at the outside block to reduce the purchase. I used to have it that way but find the extra purchase helps when playing traveler in heavy air.

I believe you can get the sheaves as replacement parts if you contact Harken.

Here is a picture of my setup.


[This message has been edited by Rhapsody #348 (edited 07-20-2008).]

You can check my ancient article on the old J/30 Class Webpage about installing the Harken windward sheeting traveller.

The Harken needs to be on it's own compatible track.

I intially used the continuous loop but reverted to two lines to avoid tangles.

The traveller control lines go through a block added to the coaming and is tied off on the old turning block on the bridge deck. The other end goes through the windward sheeting car cam cleat as you would expect.

The Harken windward sheeting setup is more expensive but worth it. Easy to pull and stays where you left it during the tack.

The Compuspec program shows track depends on old/new cockpit style; probably the midrange long car but model numbers have changed. Do get the mid range stand up toggle. You may be able to reuse existing cockpit blocks for the ends.

I'm broke right now, and trying to get her hardware back on properly.

Bill, I think I have the Fico car and track. When I searched rigrite, they sell upgrades to rebuild and /or increase cheek blocks on the car.

Has anyone just rebuilt their original fico car? This one I believe.. http://www.rigrite.com/travellers/nf_travellers/NF1169.html

I haven't priced them but an obvious show stopper would be if a new Harken system cost only slightly more than rebuilding.

I'm trying to justify spending all that money. It better be( Harken) a crazy improvement over the original.



[This message has been edited by MangoMadnesss (edited 07-22-2008).]

Rob - I looked at the Kenyon link but it's too hard to picture a complete system. I think I have all those parts in storage boxes! Can you take a picture of the setup on your boat and we can kick around some ideas?

This is the article that Rob Van Name refers to in his post: http://j30.us/blog/?page_id=352

[This message has been edited by Rhapsody #348 (edited 07-23-2008).]

The Harken is a CRAZY improvement over the original, if you are racing. However it should be much cheaper to rebuild the old traveler and if you are not racing all the time probably not that important.

Also I would just go with single blocks on the ends of the track. I have never had an issue pulling the traveller up with just 3:1 on each end.

Here is a parts list for my setup:

1626 - Traveler Car ($173)
1618.1.8M - Track ($150) (check length)
1631 (2) - Track Ends with block ($170 each)
2650 (2) - 40 mm Carbo blocks ($17 each)

(All prices are from Defender.com)

So not a cheap upgrde. One mod would be to fill in the channel so it is flush with the deck and then use cheek blocks at the end vs the expensive harken track end blocks. It would also reduce the cost of the track by about half.

I did not have a choice since my track was all pitted so even if I fixed up my traveller it still would not have worked. After nearly T-boning a few boats while ducking it was time for a new setup.

David
#397

Got the quote from Rigrite

-4 wheel fico car conversion upgrade $169
-double sheave control ends $358
-new eyestrap for car $23

-just replacing 2 sheaves $44


Heres cheapest harken on net
http://www.marinerparts.com/catalog...e=en&cPath=140&source=googlebase

-Windward long car $409
-Track (5ft) $67
-Double sheave control ends $182

I don't know what I'm going to do.

Bill, I don't think I have any pics of my old set-up but it looked original(Fico).

dbows, thanks for the parts list breakdown.


[This message has been edited by MangoMadnesss (edited 07-23-2008).]

[This message has been edited by MangoMadnesss (edited 07-23-2008).]

I've researched more.
Thanks for all the help.

When I get it I'll buy
-Harken windward car 1636;$409
-Track 161615; $67
-Harken cheek blocks 1548 x2 @$48; $96

Total before control line= $572 (do-able)

"and if you are not racing all the time probably not that important"
I don't think I would cruise mine without the windward traveller setup, unless I built a new rudder. This setup also makes it much easier to drive and trim the main