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Spin Sheave Replacement
[Re: Chris_Kirstin]
#15313
11/05/13 01:55 PM
11/05/13 01:55 PM
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Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,234 Newport and Naples
Cap'n Vic
Senior Member
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Senior Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,234
Newport and Naples
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did you see: Halyard Box Thread A year after I got my replacement box at Wickford consignment ... I saw several others still buried in a box of stainless parts. Although the original box is overkill, the holes for the pins wear and some of the rivets that hold the box also have to be drilled out and replaced. In my case I got the replacement box as I was short on time so didn't have the time to take out, figure out what to do, and then get that done. I figure I have at least 20 years left on the replacement box ... which was new, but at least 25 years old when I got it from Wickford a couple of years ago. While we were at it we ran the second spin halyard just because the original box had that extra sheave. For that matter you may be able to just get away with rerouting the spin halyard into the lower spin halyard slot. We use it for peeling ... something the kids like to do to keep occupied on light wind days.
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Re: Spin Sheave Replacement
[Re: Cap'n Vic]
#15316
11/06/13 11:39 AM
11/06/13 11:39 AM
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Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 186 Barrington, RI
cstoddard
Senior Member
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Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 186
Barrington, RI
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Main halyard shims are easy to do mine were pinned in place The Shive box is best worked on on the bench there are a total of 8 shives in the box two for each halyard they are held in place with roll pins which are easy to drive out with a drift pin
I went down to Hall Rigging and got replacements off the rack
Charlie Stoddard Falcon #229
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Re: Spin Sheave Replacement
[Re: Erik]
#16365
07/07/15 08:14 AM
07/07/15 08:14 AM
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Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 186 Barrington, RI
cstoddard
Senior Member
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Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 186
Barrington, RI
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all you need to do is drive out the old ones with a punch ( make sure its smaller that the hole in the box) then drive the new roll pins in they will stay in place with no issues
Charlie Stoddard Falcon #229
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Re: Spin Sheave Replacement
[Re: Chris_Kirstin]
#16366
07/07/15 10:53 AM
07/07/15 10:53 AM
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 74 St. Helens, OR USA
Koesh
Senior Member
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Senior Member
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 74
St. Helens, OR USA
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If the new pins feel a bit loose, you can pein them in using a ball pein hammer. Takes a helper and three hammers unless you're more dexterious than I am. Put one hammer (smallish) in a vise, ball end up, locate the concavity over the ball, lay another on the other end and hit the face with a wood or leather mallet. Don't use another hammer or you could chip them. DO wear safety glasses! :Doug #207
Doug Marshall Koeshtkah #207
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Re: Spin Sheave Replacement
[Re: Erik]
#16614
11/17/15 07:18 PM
11/17/15 07:18 PM
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Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 11 Honolulu, Hawaii
Erik
Member
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Member
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 11
Honolulu, Hawaii
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Ok, I finally worked up the nerve to climb up the mast to rebuild the halyard box. A couple sheaves were frozen and the second spin halyard sheave wasn't there. Not as easy as I had hoped. I rigged up a solo climbing setup with ascenders. Six time up and down the mast, a climbing harness is not a good idea, it's not built for comfort like an actual bosun's seat. The screws came out ok, I was afraid they'd be seized, the threads were all a bit worn down though and when I put it back together, one of the 10 holes stripped. There's gotta be a better solution than stainless hardware screwed into aluminum. Hopefully It will hold until I can pull the mast next year.
The pins for the sheaves were not press-fit as others have reported. The ends were peened over and try as hard as I could, I was unable to peen the replacement ones from rig-rite down as short as the original ones. And one of the pins for the sheaves is located slightly under the flange making access nearly impossible. I thought I had it pretty good, went all the way back up the mast and the box wouldn't fit in because the pin ends were sticking out too far. I ended up using a grinder to cut the ends down nearly flush, that left a bit of a 'rivet' end to keep the pin in place. fortunately there's no lateral forces on the pins.
As I have a roller furler, I moved the second jib halyard into the second spinnaker slot. I had thought about running another halyard so I could have 2 of each, but I couldn't find a good spot on the mast to cut yet another hole for the exit. I'm leery of having the holes not staggered enough.
Erik Mango Madness #185
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