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Re: The Rebuilding of Majic Carpet [Re: Coastie] #17102
02/05/17 01:40 PM
02/05/17 01:40 PM
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 218
Scappoose, OR
C
Coastie Offline OP
Senior Member
Coastie  Offline OP
Senior Member
C
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 218
Scappoose, OR
The Gast R1 that I bought on Craig's list has great specs if you are looking for inches of H20, not so great if you need inches of Hg. Big difference I wasn't paying attention to when I bought the pump. I got the whole setup together with the R1 and couldn't figure out why I could barely get the gauge to read anything.

I now have a pump that I got from Joe Woodworker . I also built the rest of the pump setup from parts from this site.


Dave Graf
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Re: The Rebuilding of Majic Carpet [Re: Coastie] #17286
04/24/17 06:25 PM
04/24/17 06:25 PM
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 218
Scappoose, OR
C
Coastie Offline OP
Senior Member
Coastie  Offline OP
Senior Member
C
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 218
Scappoose, OR
Ok I have been posting on the cabin sole and the heat and vacuum drying but there has been work on some other areas too. First I want to thank Bill for all the work he has done outlining the electrical systems on these boats. I got all my new parts together, studied his outline (weirdly I prefer using his hand sketched schematic over the fancy one) and the images that he and Alex have posted and then got all tied up in a knot and thought maybe I should find a professional for this part of the project. Then my local J30 buddy Doug kind of walked me through it again and the next thing I knew I started tearing stuff up. When I first started I was kind of thinking of doing each little bit separately, then as I looked at the rats nest that was behind my panel I just started cutting it away.

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

What also made this part of the project make sense to me was looking at what I would call the modular way that Alex organized his setup. Mine is not going to be anywhere near as sophisticated as that, but the very process of laying the blocks out in an organized fashion started making this all make more sense to me. So with Bill's sketch in hand I chopped out a much larger opening for the panel. I decided that this panel would be attached with 6 screws and have leads long enough that the panel can be laid on the chart table while you access the terminal blocks and the bus. I put in more terminal blocks than what I actually need right now and I put a surface mounted fuse block on the front of the panel. I didn't want to have to look for any critical fuses buried behind the panel, but likely some fuses will still be there. I also left more room on this panel for any future work. This panel is made from some resawn bubinga and is about 1/4" thick, so it matches the cabin sole.

These blocks and busses are on their own plywood block and could be removed if that was ever needed. I have also built another block for the battery area and it will have the shunt, terminal blocks and a bus bar as well. I also used some left over polycarbonate to make a cover for the long bus bar behind the panel. So the electrical work is well underway.

Another project that popped up was removing the mast step cleaning and repainting it and then dealing with the broken bolt. With some adult supervision from Chris Tate I drilled and tapped a new hole and positioned the base back into place. An interesting effect of the new bolt hole position is that it is unlikely that the base will move backward ever again unless it shears this new bolt.

Then it was mentioned that I should lead the electric bilge to the sink drain and that made great sense to me, so another detour was made. I added a vent up under the sink and then had some serious fun trying to match a hose line that would fit the vent and the special sink drain. I found that a rubber water hose did the trick for me because it could be stretched to fit the sink drain. Making this change dramatically shortens that bilge line, so at least in theory it should be easier for the bilge pump to work closer to its max efficiency.

[Linked Image]

I have also managed to remove the old hatches and get them sent to a new home. The same is going to happen to the folding prop. So lots going on, much. much more needs to be done. We are looking forward to better weather so we can take a look at the topsides and sort out all of the projects there too.

Again thanks for all the help and information that this site and group of people have provided. The Adventure Continues.

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20170416_155110_resize.jpg [1030.86 KBytes] - (426 downloads)
20170418_154812_resize.jpg [1245.37 KBytes] - (418 downloads)
20170322_130630_resize.jpg [749.59 KBytes] - (409 downloads)
Last edited by Coastie; 04/24/17 06:32 PM.

Dave Graf
Re: The Rebuilding of Majic Carpet [Re: Coastie] #17359
07/20/17 08:33 PM
07/20/17 08:33 PM
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 218
Scappoose, OR
C
Coastie Offline OP
Senior Member
Coastie  Offline OP
Senior Member
C
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 218
Scappoose, OR
It has been a while since I did a general update on my project on MaJic Carpet. Things are progressing well now and I am very near to starting to glass up the mid-section of the hull. The new core has been installed and the existing balsa has been fully dried. Now I am doing some basic fairing and filling of the divots I created when I got too aggressive with the pneumatic chisel. This tool makes it very easy to shear the old skin off or to remove core. The trick is to learn to not pry with it and only use it to shear. That is easier said then done because the wet balsa has little or no structural rigidity. Amazingly though when dried out it becomes quite stiff again. The 2nd part to improve success is to cut or score smaller sections, I found 4" x 4" to work very well. When I had larger sections there was a tendency to bury the chisel too far and in the process of pulling the bit out I would damage the balsa. I got the impact chisel online and then also tracked down a wider bit at 1-1/2" wide (about $65 together). I actually rounded the bit over on the grinder to get rid of the sharp cutting edge. While I have a large compressor right next to my work area I think I could run this tool easily on either of my small portable compressors. It doesn't need much in the way of CFM or air pressure to do this kind of work. Very short bursts move the chisel quickly and easily, at least in my case.

The other little breakthrough I had was learning that the first vacuum pump I bought works great for bedding the core in. I think a shop vac might also work ok for this, but I didn't test it. This little Gast R1 can run all day under vacuum load and not heat up. The advantage to using a high volume pump is that you can seal your film off with blue painters tape or similar (which is very inexpensive compared to the high tack vacuum tape). The small vacuum leaks between the balsa blocks are not a problem with this higher volume air flow and you still get more than adequate compression of the balsa into the bedding. In one area I actually did some glass work both on the inside and the outside of the inner skin before installing the new core. This inner skin was never very thick or strong in the first place and the removal of the core thinned it out too much. The chopped strand mat just sort of fuzzed away with the removal of the core.

The hardest part of this work by far is removing the rest of the old polyester resin from the end grain balsa. This is some quality time with the 4" grinder and 36 grit working overhead. A full face mask is required for this bit of insanity. Once that old resin is gone the balsa for the most part dries really quickly. There have been a couple of stubborn spots that needed a little heat to get fully dried right next to the solid part near the centerline. I also rechecked that solid glass section just a bit ago and see that it still shows being wet even after being exposed to a fair amount of heat from all the drying I have been doing. I think when I get the glass back on I will get the other high vacuum pump out and apply heat and a high vacuum to these areas to suck whatever juice is remaining in the solid section out. No way do I want moisture invading my newly dried balsa.

I really have to believe that having epoxy on the inside of the inner skin in the bilge from my previous work on the sole and having a very thick new outer skin of epoxy resin, this boat should be as sealed up as good as is possible. There will be no drilling of new holes on the inner side of this hull. I will bond blocks and then screw into them. Hopefully no one will ever do this project on this boat again.

Electrical work has been on hold while the weather is good. I did get out on my racing cat recently and then promptly cracked a lug out on the hull that hold the main beam, so am doing some glass work to fix that too. The fantasy is to get this J30 hull fully dried out and glassed back in so we can do something way more fun like spray paint the hull before it gets too cool this fall. I think that could actually happen at the current pace of work.

Here is a short video that is already dated. The work has moved well beyond, but I haven't shot any new video.



Dave Graf
Re: The Rebuilding of Majic Carpet [Re: Coastie] #17499
10/02/17 11:26 AM
10/02/17 11:26 AM
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 218
Scappoose, OR
C
Coastie Offline OP
Senior Member
Coastie  Offline OP
Senior Member
C
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 218
Scappoose, OR
So while most of you have been enjoying your boats this summer I have continued to have fun working mostly on the bottom of the hull. There is still allot to do, but I think by the end of this week I will have most of the hull below the waterline fully dried out and sealed back up. That will leave getting the boat fully supported by the trailer again and then the drying and skin replacement where the wooden cradle has been supporting the boat. Then it is onto fairing, keel work and a bunch of other projects.

Here is the latest video update:

So things are actually starting to go back together, rather than apart and that is very satisfying.


Dave Graf
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