Finally getting around to that windward sheeting car thing... I'd like to raise the track up (how much for the car to clear...anyone?) and fill that well with delrin or something... but I think I want it as wide as the hole....about 2 inches.. not just track width. This may be cost prohibitive... any other materials that might be suitable? also, is the track 1.2, or 1.5 meters... now that they carry the "CB" track everything has different numbers from old threads. I think I measured the hole as 60 inches across... duh, I think thats 5ft... and 1.5 mtr is just shy of that. But Layline just quoted me the 1.2 ... is it just me, or is that wrong?

My aftermarket traveler was mounted on some 0.5" synthetic material. To do it again, I'd make the track a little shorter than the deck recess hole, because now the traveler traps water and debris forward of the recess. Or maybe on enough of a riser that the track is proud of the deck so no water stands in the recess.

Dyk Luben

When I converted over the the Harken track the 1618 track was the choice. Length is 1.5M if memory serves me right. To raise the track a piece of 2" x 1/2" x 60" piece of teak was used. I too had the standing water problem until I drilled a hole in the center through the width of the teak. It still collects garbage but at least the water drains. The problem I have with the set up is the traveler sheet is always getting caught under the car when tacking. You really have to watch what is happennig there. Anyone have thoughts on how to keep this from happening?
Also, when the track was purchased, it shipped with one less square washer for the bolts that was needed. 6 instead of 7? You might want to make sure your supplier can supply you with the extra part to avoid having to fabricate your own.

I am with Scampbell.. that darn line. likes to hide in the slot and than gets all screwed up when you make a tack...
I tried to put one of those insulation ( finger thick ) grey jobbies into the slot... just to get scared sh..less when the darn think poped out and was flying around in the cocpit. thought something broke ...

will try to find sumpin over the winter to solve that problem

Thor

I bought a piece of mahogany about 2"x2"x60" and fitted to the slot in the deck. It took a bit of time to get it correct, but it wasn't that hard. Then I caulked around the mahogany to fill and gaps and keep water from running down into the slot. It's been working for about 7-8 yrs.

Guys,
Talk to Henry at Layline. They have a great riser material (nylon I think). Happily, Henrey used to won a J30 and is quite helpful. Here's how I solved the damming problem after the rise is installed...before installing, I routed out three 1.5" tracks on what would later be the bottom side of the riser. One near each end diagonally drained water the the center and the third "spillway" was in the center to drain directly back.

Never any water damming. Maybe once a month I have to flush the dead bugs, food assorted stuff that has built up.

After modifying my existing travel system about five times I really have a sweet setup that did not cost anyways near the three or four hundred dollars that a new windward sheeting system costs.It uses a single 1/4 " line that has very little slack in it and cannot get fouled in the track. I had to modify my existing car with two additional sheaves stacked above the existing ones. This is how it is rigged: The line is dead ended near the right rear corner of the traveler car with a eye splice and a small shackle, it goes over to the deck at the right end of the track and around the the lower sheave of a double cheek block. (The line goes counterclockwise around the double sheaves on the right side and clockwise around the double sheaves on the left side of the boat), the line goes back to the car and around the lower sheave mounted on the right side of the car. The line goes back around the upper sheave of the cheek block, back to an upper sheave on the right side of the the traveler car, back to a single cheek block mounted just aft of the double cheek block then through a camcleat mounted near the right edge of the seat combing near the footwell. The line continues across the footwell to another camcleat on the left edge of the seat combing. The left side is a rigged as a mirror image of the right side. To release the traveler car all you have to do is pull up on the line that crosses over the footwell. You can basically operte the traveler from any position. when the travlerer moves one way or the other the length of the line remains the same as the line gets shorter on one side , it lengthens the same amount on the other side, so there is never any slack in the line to get fouled in the track.

Jerry, any pictures of the traveler rigging?

I will take some photos of the travelor setup this weekend and email them to you if you give me you email address.

I would love to see those pics ASAP... my email is jdoe@onebox.com Thanks for the input.