New question. I've searched and read that the wilcox "head-mate" is a direct switch out, more or less. On the web, the model number is listed as 1460 (either with a straight tailpipe or 90 degree tailpipe). When I look to buy one, defender has the same toilet, with a different wilcox model number. Has anyone done this recently? Which did you get?

I was on hold with the company forever, but I am wondering if anyone can shed some light on this. And, do I need anything else other than the toilet (tubing, etc). or can I just switch out the toilet.

Thanks,
Teresa

I am replacing the old W-C head with the Raritan PHII model. The existing plumbing will work and the toilet fits nicely in the space; it's only slightly larger and I have it positioned on a bias. It's not a direct replacement as the bolts are in different locations, but it's a simple matter to fill the old bolt holes and the new head has a plastic trim piece that hides the old holes (and the base of the head) anyway.

Practical Sailor reviewed the head favorably and it's pretty affordable.

I don't have any input on the newer W-C.

Hi Teresa -

The model is the Headmate (37001/ 189283) and you will need the 90degree tail-piece. I replace mine a few years ago and it fits exactly in the old holes.

Check with the class measurer before you buy anything other than the direct replacement. Since you race one design.

David
#397

[This message has been edited by dbows (edited 06-18-2007).]

I'm obviously having a slow transition from PHRF to OD compliance. I've sent Larry an email about the legality of the PHII. So, please ignore the above post.

The Headmate is original equipment for all boats up to 1982. I know I have one. Apparently this site claims that it switched in that year to Gross Mechanical Labs, but I've never seen a newer boat so I can't say.

If I may ask, why are you replacing the head?

I was able to purchase a complete head rebuild kit from Wilcox, which turned my impossible-to-flush head into something usable. (Now installing it wasn't at all pleasant!) It included new valves, piston, shaft packing, gaskets.... just about anything that could wear out.

Also, I'm not sure about OD legality, but I've seen a conversion kit to make those heads electric. You reuse the bowl but replace the base. Has anyone here ever done this?

Ryan
Tesara, #337

My reason for replacing the head was to upgrade to what I thought would be a superior unit and because I did not want to troubleshoot the old one.

I returned the Raritan today and I was able to pick up the W-C at the local Boater's World. One nice thing is that the W-C is $200 cheaper.

Had I previously considered the OD ramifications, I may have just purchased the W-C rebuild kit ($60). However, by the time this thread came up, I had removed and tossed the old head.

I'll install it tomorrow morning.

Hey T, you can get that head on my port supply acct for about 125.00 I've replaced mine 3x in 14 yrs... it just makes it easy to install the exact replacement... and for the difference in price I fell there is enough yucky stuff to put together without rebuilding that pump.

If everything else is in good shape, the $60 rebuild kit is the way to go. I picked one up at Boat/US two years ago. It's not a difficult job.

The rebuild was not very technically challenging, just disgusting. Rags, a bucket, and Lysol are a must. Unfortunately, I did this without the benefit of Vicks Vapor Rub under my nose. (That was mentioned in another thread, yes?)

But I don't think the rebuild is all that much worse than installing a new head. You've got the unpleasantness of disconnecting the waste line in either case. But in a rebuild, it doesn't have to come off the hose barb; you're just taking off the whole elbow to replace the joker valve. Otherwise, everything else, with the exception of the piston (which isn't that bad) and the intake valve (also not that bad) is stuff that's on the clean water side of things. Replacing the valve box for the water intake was the most time consuming part. I didn't bother replacing the bowl gasket, even though one came with the kit, as that appeared to be fine.

Ryan
Tesara, #337

P.S. Isn't the joker valve named after the poor fool who gets stuck replacing it?

P.P.S. My worst head experience wasn't the rebuild, but a pumpout gone bad. The seal between the nozzle and the deck fitting wasn't tight, and it caught me by surprise, exploding EVERYWHERE, even into my (unfortunately) open mouth. Eeeew!