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The J/30 Class Association has partnered with West Marine and is now a member of the West Marine affiliate program. You can support the J/30 Class when you make your West Marine purchases online. The J/30 Class Association receives a percentage of sales from your purchases when you click through from our website. Click the logo above and you will be directed to the West Marine website with a cookie that identifies you as a J/30 affiliate. You can also use any discounts that you may be authorized.
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Re: J30 parts for sale
#3084
03/26/02 01:08 PM
03/26/02 01:08 PM
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Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23 Buffalo, NY
pbattin
Senior Member
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Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23
Buffalo, NY
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Originally posted by Alan Grim: On hull #359, I discovered through an accident the makeup of the transom. While out sailing in heavy air (35 kts with gusts to 50) and putting a reef in the main, we didnt see a log until we were on top of it. The log stopped the boat as it went under the keel. As we surged over the log with the keel, the log rose up and struck the lowest point on the rudder. I heard a distinct crunching noise. One of my crew looked over the stern and saw that the lower gudgeon bracket had bowed outward approx 5/8". We didnt see any other stern damage at the time. Plus, with the reef in, the helm was well balanced and unloaded. So we finished the race and returned to the slip. Thats when I discovered the tear in the stern fiberglass around the upper gudgeon bracket. On hull #359, there is a core about 6" wide running from the top of the stern panel to the bottom apparently to stiffen the panel at the gudgeon supports. The rest of the panel is solid glass. No evidence of coring. There was no coring at the rip in the glass and the panel remained the same thickness from side to side and top to bottom.
This doesnt tell me that the stern panel was made separate from the hull halves but it does tell me that a leak at the exhaust should not damage the core. Its in solid glass.
In any case, insurance and a good shop repaired my stern to my satisfaction, except of course for the increase in premiums. alan, the transom is not solid glass. the exaust is a fiber glass tube that is set in the transom and tabed into place the problem is that when tpi built the boat the exaust hole was drilled thru the transom(balsa core and glassed into place the exterior was filled w/ gelcoat and that was it. the problems all start when due to temp changes the tube expands and contracts and the seal fails.Beacuse the balsa was not isolated or sealed before the tube was inserted the the rain water and exaust water migrates into the transom and in time will rot the core and soak the starbord side of the hull. the port side remains uneffected due to the isolation of the 2 hull haves the joint on the center line is solid glass approx 6" wide. this also runs up the center of the transom. I have had to cut the transom off on the strbd quarter (the skin from the center of the gudgens to approx 3 " from the corner. this is solid glass at the corner the old wet balsa was removed and new balsa fitted and reglassed and re gelcoated. the balsa at the exaust hole was gone turned into a gray paste and further in the balsa was firm but soaked the areas under the transom was also removed and repared the same way. this was a very big job that was done 2 years ago and have had no problems sence, the boat is sailed very hard in over night races and in all weathed not a crack in sight. by the way when i reinstalled the exaust all the balsa was removed 1" in all directions from the inside and the area was built up in solid glass and the new hole was drilled thru and the exaust re fitted.If the seal at the transom ever breaks the water will have no wear to go.
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Re: J30 parts for sale
#3085
03/26/02 07:12 PM
03/26/02 07:12 PM
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Anonymous
OP
Unregistered
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Anonymous
OP
Unregistered
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Paul, what you describe is VERY similar to what was found on our hull #89. The fiberglass exhaust tube was tabbed and glassed on the inside, but only caulked on the outside. We found the problem looking for a source for new blisters on the starboard hull which appeared suddenly during spring bottom work 2 years ago. The blisters fanned out in a pattern from the exhaust. We cut the exhaust out and found the "gray paste" about 1" around the tailpipe. We drilled test holes and found moisture migration about halfway up the transom on the starboard side. As you said, nothing on the port side. Rather that cut out the transome and the hull, we drilled 3/8" dia. holes in a 2.5" grid on the transom and on the hull all the way to about 14" short of the ice box. The hull and transom were allowed to dry for 6 months in inside heated storage, tested for moisture with a moisture meter (1% to 4%) and the holes filled with resin. The cavity around the tailpipe was filled with glass filled resin and the pipe was sealed back into place with resin. No problems since.
This same condition was found on HALLEL, hull #88 and repaired. We got a lot of guidance from HALLEL's owner, Bill Anderson, for our repair. The owner of hull #83 (Sugar & Spice) that BrianT has did not discover the moisture incursion soon enough, and the freezing and thawing of a cold MI winter resulted in a split hull from the transom (near the exhaust) about 6 to 8 feet long. The transom also expanded and cracked all the gellcoat over a large area.
It may be possible that TPI discovered this defect and changed production techniques for later hull numbers so that the tailpipe hole was drilled through an area of solid glass. This is only speculation on my part and would explain why some owners report solid glass in this area, but if your hull # is earlier than #89 you should check out the transom around the tail pipe!
BobbyCox, Ricochet
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