The boat has to come out of the water soon, so it's time to start thinking about rebuilding a few areas of the core. The biggest spot is midship and about 3x5. I plan on rebuilding this from the inside. It would seem to be easier than trying to match the exterior hull contours. The next major spot is the transom, which I'll do similar to what I have seen on this forum.
1) has anyone remove the interior wood work? what's involved?
2)Does anyone have a good source for balsa wood?
thanks
john

[1) has anyone remove the interior wood work? what's involved?
2)Does anyone have a good source for balsa wood?[/B][/QUOTE]

Check out the following links and perhaps contact Rich at 6 Degrees Software and Consulting, Inc. http://www.6degrees.com
mailto:rich@6degrees.com

http://j30.us/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/5934/Dewatering_Aft_Bilge_Need_Advi.html
http://www.6degrees.com/j30/underthefloor/J30%20Rebuild/Inner%20Laminate.html

AC
#448 Rauzer II

http://www.marine.com/product_info.php/c...ba25b3d2a21d6f4

this was 3/4" balsa used for the cabin top.
I don't know the thickness of the hull balsa.
I am curious to see your end-results...

Also reference this link:
http://j30.us/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/6404/Core_Damage_Tip.htm

Hello Everyone,
I'm new to this site and the new owner of Hull #124. This boat needed a lot of work and unlike the last boat I owned, a Bombardier 7.6, I thought I would take pictures of the rebuild (the work is being completed by myself and help from the crew).

If you are interested in my progress then please view my site: http://sailrattleandhum.blogspot.com/

Please Note:
I have no commentary on this site, I'm more interested in rebuilding the boat then keeping a blog up to date. If you have any questions I'll do my best to answer them in short order.


Thanks

Wow thanks for sharing.

I have some to the conclusion that blisters come from two sources:

(1) lack of an epoxy bas barrier system

and

(2) water from up above

Did you ave have any luck matching the deck with factory based anti-skid look?

Because I'm rebuilding the entire deck I won't be trying to reproduce the factory non-skid. I had great success with the process I used on the last boat and intend to use it again.

Quick overview of the steps:
1) Using a quality paint scrapper, scrap off the non-skid.
2) Sanded down the "smooth surfaces" with a board sander at 80 grit.
3) Sand down the "non-skid" surface with 80 grit.
4) Spray Awlgrip 545 primer to appropriate coverage thinkness (after deck has been properly cleaned).
5) Sand down the primed surface at 220 grit.
6) Spray Awlgrip on "smooth surfaces".
7) Tape off/cover "smooth surfaces".
8) Mix awlgrip (as directed) with flattening agent, then mix in Colloidal Silica until the paint is as thick as peanut butter.
9) Spread the mixture onto the non-skid area and roll it with a medium nap roller.
10) Let dry and remove the tape.

That's it and (in my opinion) you will get a beautiful, long lasting result. It will look like the non-skid on C&Cs as well the non-skid used on J120s.

There are more details on how to use awlgrip at: http://www.awlgrip.com/awlgrip_pages/application_guide_above_water.htm

A website on how to create the non-skid that I have described: http://www.westsystem.com/ewmag/20/Fiberglass_deck.html

Thanks

Great stuff - thanks for sharing.

I can also attest that the real trick is using a LOT of flattening agent. My Dad had his Cal completely repainted with Awlgrip by a yard (Fleet Marine in Pt. Townsend, WA - great yard, people, and product, BTW) and the trick, as explained to me, is to use a ton of flattening agent. It will help give the nonskid a "velvety" feel vs. a rough sandpaper feel.

Nice work RattleandHum. Inspiring!

- Jeff
J/30 #426

For those of you following the rebuild of Rattle and Hum I have updated the blog as of today.
http://sailrattleandhum.blogspot.com

Thanks

Jason Penney