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Forums28
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Most Online238 Feb 9th, 2024
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The J/30 Class Association has partnered with West Marine and is now a member of the West Marine affiliate program. You can support the J/30 Class when you make your West Marine purchases online. The J/30 Class Association receives a percentage of sales from your purchases when you click through from our website. Click the logo above and you will be directed to the West Marine website with a cookie that identifies you as a J/30 affiliate. You can also use any discounts that you may be authorized.
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Re: Cutlass Bearing
#5458
11/20/06 02:20 PM
11/20/06 02:20 PM
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 649 Marblehead, MA
dbows
Senior Member
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Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 649
Marblehead, MA
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The shaft should have no play side to side in the cutlass bearing. Just grab the prop and if it moves side to side then you need a new on. Makes a big difference if it is worn. I replaced mine last spring.
David #397
David Bows Mallorca - Hull# 397 ~~~~~_/)~_/)~~~~_/)~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~|~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~|~~~~~
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Re: Cutlass Bearing
#5459
11/21/06 12:44 AM
11/21/06 12:44 AM
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Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,669 Portsmouth, RI
Rhapsody #348
Past J/30 Class President
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Past J/30 Class President
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,669
Portsmouth, RI
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Originally posted by dbows: .... I replaced mine last spring.
David #397 David - how easy was it to remove the old bearing from the strut? I see a set screw but I've heard you may need a torch to heat up the strut to remove the old bearing. Did you need any special bearing puller tools? I've got the shaft and Yanmar pulled to rebuild the engine and refurbish the prop this winter. Something to pass the time in my basement while waiting for spring. I've replaced the shaft seal and should probably replace the cutlass bearing while everything is apart. Bill #348
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Re: Cutlass Bearing
#5460
11/22/06 07:59 AM
11/22/06 07:59 AM
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 649 Marblehead, MA
dbows
Senior Member
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Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 649
Marblehead, MA
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Bill -
Mine was a breeze to get out. It took the set screw out and then took a medium size nail punch and slowly tapped around the collar of the bearing to work it out enough so I could grab it with some pliers to pull the rest of the way out. It came right out. I think who ever replaced it last did a good job with the lanakote because it had a nice layer of grease on the collar so it came right out.
The other solutions I have heard are taking a socket the same size as the collar and tapping with that. Gear pullers and other exotic contraptions. I hope yours is as easy as mine.
David #397
David Bows Mallorca - Hull# 397 ~~~~~_/)~_/)~~~~_/)~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~|~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~|~~~~~
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Re: Cutlass Bearing
#5462
12/06/06 07:19 PM
12/06/06 07:19 PM
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 649 Marblehead, MA
dbows
Senior Member
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Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 649
Marblehead, MA
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I have 3/4 inch shaft but mine bearing was not cut down. They come in the exact sizes so get it out and measure it.
David #397
David Bows Mallorca - Hull# 397 ~~~~~_/)~_/)~~~~_/)~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~|~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~|~~~~~
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Re: Cutlass Bearing
#5464
12/24/06 12:21 AM
12/24/06 12:21 AM
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Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 41 New Orleans, LA USA
Toy Box
Senior Member
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Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 41
New Orleans, LA USA
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To remove the cutlass bearing, I used a reciplicating saw with a hacksaw blade and cut the old bearing out in two to three places after removing the set screw. To install the new cutlass bearing, purchase a length of threaded shaft at any Lowes or hardware store. The nuts for the threaded shaft are sufficent for the job, but the washers you use should be the diamiter of your cutlass bearing and the diamiter of your strut, simply tighten the nuts till it pulls the new bearing in place. It is important not to beat on your strut, since it is only strewed to fiberglass by four strews.
Toy Box
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Re: Cutlass Bearing
#5466
01/28/07 12:00 AM
01/28/07 12:00 AM
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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 164 Olney, IL
Thor
Senior Member
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Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 164
Olney, IL
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yes you do need to take the shaft out.... which is by the way much easier than to take the prop off....lol just go inside and find the square nuts with the safety wire .... loosen both and voila somebody can pull it right out
Thor
Thor
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