1
|
2
|
3
|
4
|
5
|
6
|
7
|
8
|
9
|
10
|
11
|
12
|
13
|
14
|
15
|
16
|
17
|
18
|
19
|
20
|
21
|
22
|
23
|
24
|
25
|
26
|
27
|
28
|
29
|
30
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Forums28
Topics3,984
Posts19,069
Members1,019
|
Most Online238 Feb 9th, 2024
|
|
|
Re: no anchor-go faster
#559
07/29/05 04:02 PM
07/29/05 04:02 PM
|
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 493 Chicago, Il. USA
D. Bartley
Governor at Large
|
Governor at Large
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 493
Chicago, Il. USA
|
We have an aluminum Fortress anchor. It's weight is negligible. The anchor rode is stored below in the middle of the boat, so doesn't hurt performance too much. An anchor is required for the racing I do.
I agree it's a pretty basic piece of safety equipment.
Dennis Bartley Planxty, s/n 23994 hull 205
|
|
|
Re: no anchor-go faster
#561
08/02/05 04:00 PM
08/02/05 04:00 PM
|
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 127 Chicago, IL, US
rdpierce
Senior Member
|
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 127
Chicago, IL, US
|
I have something of an opposite question... involving increasing weight. (Yes, I know, not racing-friendly.... ;-)
I recently tried anchoring without much luck. I've been told I need to get about 20' of chain; then the anchor will practically set itself. Thoughts?
Also, the anchor locker looks like it could hold a substantially larger anchor than what I have. I don't see anything about anchor weight in the class rules. What did the J/30 originally come with? I haven't weighed mine, but it looks pretty small for a 30' boat.
Ryan Pierce, #337
|
|
|
Re: no anchor-go faster
#563
08/03/05 09:04 PM
08/03/05 09:04 PM
|
Anonymous
OP
Unregistered
|
Anonymous
OP
Unregistered
|
In response to rdpierce's inquiry: J/Boats states on the J-30 page that the anchor locker was designed to hold a 20# Danforth.
|
|
|
Re: no anchor-go faster
#564
08/10/05 10:23 AM
08/10/05 10:23 AM
|
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 159 grand rapids, mi
311 Temptation
Western Great Lakes District Governor
|
Western Great Lakes District Governor
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 159
grand rapids, mi
|
20' of chain would be double what I have, & it works nicely.
Anchor setting tips, works every time: 1 - secure bitter end to cleat 2 - zero forward way, as you begin to reverse 2 - sensing the beginning of reverse way, toss anchor & chain overboard 3 - play out plenty of rode, till you are about 3:1 scope, minimum (ex: 30' rode per 10' depth)before applying any tension to rode 4 - tug on rode, somewhat gently to begin to align anchor in correct direction 5 - pay out more rode as you reverse, to increase scope, which increases chances of anchor holding, and sets it better too 6 - when you get to the end of the rode, get some real good reverse way on, and set the anchor hard (manually) with such a solid tug of your arms that you have forward way. Drop rode in water, enjoy. Dive on anchor for fun, just to see the flukes buried up the shank, for peace of mind. Once you see it, you can more easily visualize what needs to happen in the future without seeing it.
Dell Todd #311 Temptation Holland MI
|
|
|
|
0 registered members (),
42
guests, and 8
spiders. |
Key:
Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod
|
|
|