I'm prepping my J/30 for some mild offshore racing. The boat has never been raced (that I know of) and I need some recommendations on what I should add to get started. I've read all the spin rigging threads on the forum, but had some specific questions.

Here is what I have now:

-spin halyard, topping lift, downhaul, pole - all stock plan to keep as is

-aft snatch blocks - non-ratcheting big snatch blocks which mount to aft pad eyes.

-cabin-top 2-speed winches - all stock. No cleats for spin sheets (don't know if other boats have them or not).

-twings - none!

My questions are:

-twings - I've read threads where people said they could be omitted by running sheets inside lifelines, but I've never been on a symmetrical boat that didn't have twings. What is the easiest way to add them? Is the no-twing option really viable?

-spin-sheets - are non-ratcheting aft blocks OK? Do most boats have a way to cleat off the sheet/guy when not actively trimming? If so, what kind of cleat and where is it usually located? Pictures would be awesome.

Thanks!

-dan

Dan - see this old thread for pictures on twing locations: http://j30.us/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/4896/Re_Spinnaker_Guy.html#Post4896

And this recent thread: http://j30.us/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/7013/Spin_Sheets_through_Second_Blo.html#Post7013

Twings are useful for control but could be eliminated in light air.

Call APS (Annapolis Performance Sailing) they will get all the parts you need for twings. (it will cost about 150-200 dollars) I do not use ratcheting blocks but I have cleats on the cabin top. Sorry I don't have any pics. I still have shrink wrap on my boat. Too cold to get going in upstate N.Y.

HHSA
Velocity Girl #278

If you are able to do a double braid eyesplice, you can make your own twings for much less than $150.
Qty (2) - Snatch Block Holt-Allen 4475
1/4" Sta-set line - use ~ 12 feet each side

I reran my tweakers (twings) late last year and love the setup. I have a small block on the aft side of each of the middle stanchion bases. The line runs from there to a bullseye fairlead just forward of the genoa track and to a cam cleat/fairlead combo on the cabin sides, near the top and about 1/2" from the back. It works great and is within easy reach of the main and jib/spin trimmers, pit, the middle of the boat railmeat and even the driver.

This is a major improvement from the way I was running them, which is through a block and cam on the stanchion. I can get some photos if there's an interest.

I guess my simple snap shackles left over from the old jib halyards and tied on with a bowline is a bit too simple ... just run it through the stanchion base, and snap it on the sheet or guy as needed. we're not lifting a ton with the twings ... if its more than 100 lbs of force I'll be surprised. The line doesn't show any friction wear on the old sheets after 10 years.. can't be any worse than wrapping line on a winch.

half the time they are more trouble than they are worth unless you are seeking perfection and then it is one more thing to have to keep track of. great for gibing as they keep the lines in control if you only have one foredeck crew.

Oh well ... when you are on SS ... you make do.

Re sheets inside or outside ... I do a lot of beam to broad reach on Spin ... no easy way to have guy outside the stanchions for that ... and the twing keeps the line off the shroud. This is where you need blocks at the stanchion base as keeping the guy off the shrouds does take some tugging.


Re non-ratcheting blocks ... all I ever used ... just one more thing to have to remember when the ratchets are clicked in

re snatch blocks at the aft ... we just keep regular blocks attached ... snatch blocks are expensive. but then again we spin pretty much every time we go out.

re the downhaul attachment ... most of the time it is set up to be about 4-5 feet in back of the bow ... BUT I REALLY LIKED the note in one of the prior posts to bring it back to the base of the mast as that would eliminate having to have a crew guy try to keep track of that and the num nums I get as crew don't understand that the downhaul has to be released before you winch the pole guy back. Once you move it to the base of the mast most oldtimers then want to call it the foreguy as the bridle almost looks like it runs directly to the front of the pole. if that works well with the bridle I will be very happy.

[[I tried it this morning at the slip and the only thing that I don't like is that when it is run back to the mast it seems the pole is free to swing 90degrees. With the downhaul anchor far forward you can lock the pole next to the forestay if someone is working on the foredeck and by chance the pole is up. I know you guys are going to tell me that no one ever puts the pole up without the guy in the jaw and the spin prefed.]]

picture of racing spin cleat ... was OEM cleat ... wrap once around and tug ... or whatever ... clock wise one side, counter clock the other.

duh ... it is in front of the pretty gal. who is also an ex-emergency room MD and on my crew whenever she is in town.

Thanks for all the great input!

Twings - I've decided to go "the full monty" and just ordered Harken turning blocks, cam cleat/fair leads, and Holt Allen snatches from APS.

Spin Sheets - I'll be keeping my non-ratcheting blocks.

Spin Sheet Cleats - I didn't realize the cabin-top horn cleats were for the spin sheets; I've been using them to lock down the halyards. Seems like some cams would be a lot better if they were in the right place.

Downhaul - I think I will keep mine in the stock location.

Thanks again for the help, if anyone knows of a smart place to put some cams for the spin sheets let me know!

-dan

Another good thing to do is mount a cam cleat upsidedown on the mast about a foot under the exit plate. This way you can jump the halyard at the mast but also lead it back to the cockpit.

I run an additional set of ratcheting blocks inboard directly abeam of the secondaries. So the lines start at the spinnaker, lead aft through the tweakers (twings) then to non-ratcheting blocks on the aft padeyes. The lines then move inboard back up the rail to the ratcheting blocks then do a 90 degree turn onto the cabin top secondaries. I find this extra set of blocks keeps the cockpit a little tidier and keeps the crew from doing the "spinnaker sheet limbo". In honesty these came with the boat when I bought it, but I find that the system works quite well.

Here's a photo for reference...