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Re: Rhapsody 2009-2010 Winter Work....
[Re: Rhapsody #348]
#8694
01/04/10 12:57 AM
01/04/10 12:57 AM
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 111 Bellevue, WA, USA
R II
Senior Member
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Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 111
Bellevue, WA, USA
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Where can one find the stainless sleeves for isolating the rudder core? 3/8" ID. I am in the process of drying, barrier coating and sleeving the mounting holes on Rauzer II.
AC
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Rhapsody 2009-2010 Winter Work....Clutch
[Re: Rhapsody #348]
#8729
01/08/10 11:59 PM
01/08/10 11:59 PM
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Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,668 Portsmouth, RI
Rhapsody #348
OP
Past J/30 Class President
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OP
Past J/30 Class President
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,668
Portsmouth, RI
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I disassembled the shaft holding the conical clutch assembly and posted some information on my blog. Here's a picture of the seating surface that the conical clutch mates with. The right one has not been worked on yet, so you can see the glazed surface that causes the clutch to slip. I already used emery cloth on the left one. The cone clutch surface is shown below, along with all the other pieces that make up the assembly. Read more on the Blog Post
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Re: Rhapsody 2009-2010 Winter Work....Clutch
[Re: Rhapsody #348]
#8735
01/10/10 02:54 AM
01/10/10 02:54 AM
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 111 Bellevue, WA, USA
R II
Senior Member
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Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 111
Bellevue, WA, USA
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The right one has not been worked on yet, so you can see the glazed surface that causes the clutch to slip. I will be interested to hear if just resurfacing those surfaces solves the slipping clutch problem. On Rauzer II the cone had to be replaced as the surface on the 'forward' side was worn. It was barely noticeable to the naked eye, but once replaced, it engaged as it should. A friend had the same problem and simply flipped the cone so the less used side, previously used for 'reverse' was then used for 'forward'. He may still have had some slippage in reverse, but I don't know. If I was going to all of the trouble of taking the thing apart because the clutch was slipping, I would replace the cone. In a car you don't just resurface the flywheel. You put in a new clutch plate as well. jmho fwiw
Last edited by alcal1750; 01/10/10 03:07 AM.
AC
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Re: Rhapsody 2009-2010 Winter Work....Clutch
[Re: R II]
#8736
01/10/10 10:20 AM
01/10/10 10:20 AM
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Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,668 Portsmouth, RI
Rhapsody #348
OP
Past J/30 Class President
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OP
Past J/30 Class President
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,668
Portsmouth, RI
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Al - Thanks for the comments. I thought about replacing the drive cone and have read on various other forums with people who had success by just removing the glazed surface. My take is that the clearances would only change if the cone was worn, and if that happened, there would be metal bits in the the oil. Since the oil was the original honey color and I didn't see any particulates, the drive cone should be good. I'm also lightly lapping the cone surface to remove any glaze on it. Regarding automobile clutches - these are a different animal as the clutch plate has pads that actually do wear and you see dust collected inside the bell housing. As it stands, I'm only out my labor and a tube of gasket sealer for the transmission case to bell housing joint. The problem I had was the engine would not easily engage in forward gear when warmed up. I had to run the engine through various RPMs before the clutch would engage. It would engage just fine when the engine was cold. This will either fix it, or I'll be in the same state I was before the rebuild. Besides, it gives me boat work to do in the basement when it's 20 degrees outside. If this doesn't fix it, I'll take it apart next winter and put in a new drive cone. With the parts in hand, the entire rebuild in my basement would take less than 3 hours now that I know how it is assembled and adjusted.
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Re: Rhapsody 2009-2010 Winter Work....Clutch
[Re: Rhapsody #348]
#8738
01/10/10 08:11 PM
01/10/10 08:11 PM
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 111 Bellevue, WA, USA
R II
Senior Member
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Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 111
Bellevue, WA, USA
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Bill - I would still flip the cone so the more worn side engages the reverse gear. imho
AC
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