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Forums28
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The J/30 Class Association has partnered with West Marine and is now a member of the West Marine affiliate program. You can support the J/30 Class when you make your West Marine purchases online. The J/30 Class Association receives a percentage of sales from your purchases when you click through from our website. Click the logo above and you will be directed to the West Marine website with a cookie that identifies you as a J/30 affiliate. You can also use any discounts that you may be authorized.
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Re: Diesel problems
[Re: Eric Whan]
#9111
03/19/10 01:52 PM
03/19/10 01:52 PM
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Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,669 Portsmouth, RI
Rhapsody #348
Past J/30 Class President
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Past J/30 Class President
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,669
Portsmouth, RI
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Eric, You want to use the pump to fill the bowl on the Racor. You will also be pushing some air up the fuel system, through the fuel lift pump to the inlet of the high pressure fuel pump. - Pump the Racor until you feel the system is full (it will get hard to pump). Once you get to that point,
- crack open the bleed screw on the top of the 2 micron filter located between the fuel lift pump and high pressure fuel pump on the stbd side. Note this is cracked open, NOT wide open because you only want to concentrate on air escaping, and minimize fuel escaping.
- put a rag under the bleed screw to catch fuel.
- Pump the Racor with one hand and you'll see air/fuel being pushed out of the bleed screw.
- Once the air is gone (no bubbles or hissing (solid fuel), close the bleed screw while pushing the plunger down on the Racor pump.
- crack open the bleed screw on the inlet fitting to the high pressure fuel pump (that's on the stbd side front of engine). Again, only cracked open, NOT wide open.
- put a rag under the bleed screw to catch fuel.
- Pump the Racor with one hand and you'll see air/fuel being pushed out of the bleed screw.
- Once the air is gone (no bubbles or hissing (solid fuel), close the bleed screw while pushing the plunger down on the Racor pump.
That should suffice on bleeding the system. You can actually bleed all the way to the injector inlet, but this probably isn't necessary. Start up the engine per normal procedure and call it done!
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Re: Diesel problems
[Re: Eric Whan]
#9130
03/21/10 10:57 PM
03/21/10 10:57 PM
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Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 37 Toronto, ON
Eric Whan
Senior Member
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Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 37
Toronto, ON
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One of the reasons I like sailing so much is that I hate engines.
First, what I had thought was a pump handle on the Racor primary filter was just a bleed/venting screw. So I left this filter alone and proceeded to change the upper/secondary filter. I then tried to bleed the air out of the system but the manual lever on the lift pump got me about ten drops of fuel per 100 pumps.
Does this mean that the lift pump is toast? And, does this primary/lift pump serve any other purpose than priming/bleeding? It does not look mechanical to me, but posts above suggest otherwise.
In the end, I filled the bowl of the secondary filter with fuel an and left it, planning to come back here to the forum and ask for advice. The boat's on the hard, but I need to get the engine running within two weeks to pump out antifreeze prior to launch in mid April.
My big question is will the other fuel pump eventually be able to reestablish fuel flow, or do I need to replace that lift pump? There is definately some air in the system, but only because of the filter change (I think). If I need a new lift pump, how do I get one?
I should also add that the engine had always been hesitant to start, that it smokes a lot when it does, and has cacked out or varied its RPMs when underway in a seaway. So I'm changing filters as a first step.
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Re: Diesel problems
[Re: Eric Whan]
#9132
03/22/10 12:05 AM
03/22/10 12:05 AM
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Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,669 Portsmouth, RI
Rhapsody #348
Past J/30 Class President
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Past J/30 Class President
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,669
Portsmouth, RI
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Eric - the most inexpensive but effective way is to buy one of the squeeze bulb inline fuel pumps you see on outboard motors. Splice this inline with the fuel system just before the inlet to the Racor. You can leave it in the system without any impact. The fuel lift pump is a pain to prime the system, as you can't really pump it fast enough to be effective and it is really low capacity. It doesn't pump a whole lot, as the engine normally consumes about 0.3 to 0.5 gallons per hour. If you need a new lift pump, you can look in the top menu under "Market", "Equipment Suppliers" and see the link for Yanmar parts. Since you are in the great white north, Look here
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Re: Diesel problems
[Re: Rhapsody #348]
#9135
03/22/10 09:23 AM
03/22/10 09:23 AM
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 649 Marblehead, MA
dbows
Senior Member
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Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 649
Marblehead, MA
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Seems like the bulb pump would be better on the outflow side of the racor so you "pull" fule through the filter vs forcing it through. Maybe it does not matter - I do not have one but it has now made the "to do list" since I use the lift pump which is not very effective - particularly when you have to replace the filter underway.
David Bows Mallorca - Hull# 397 ~~~~~_/)~_/)~~~~_/)~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~|~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~|~~~~~
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Re: Diesel problems
[Re: dbows]
#9141
03/22/10 09:40 AM
03/22/10 09:40 AM
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Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,669 Portsmouth, RI
Rhapsody #348
Past J/30 Class President
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Past J/30 Class President
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,669
Portsmouth, RI
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David - either location should work. With the pump on the suction side, it lets you vent the Racor to get air out of it too.
Long term, I have a small 12V electric diaphragm pump I use to empty the fuel tank into containers when needed (e.g. dreaded diesel bug). It could also be used for priming if needed, but I have a hand pump on my Racor filter. To use the electric pump I disconnect the suction to the Racor and connect the pump there, then pump discharges fuel into containers. It plugs into a cigarette lighter connection on the power panel. Someday I plan on installing this permanently and wiring it to a power panel switch. Because the fuel lift pump has a diaphragm that could rupture and leak fuel into the crank case, I don't think the pump should be powered all the time, but in an emergency, I could bypass the fuel lift pump and use the electric pump to feed the HP fuel pump.
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Re: Diesel problems
[Re: Eric Whan]
#9144
03/22/10 01:51 PM
03/22/10 01:51 PM
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 111 Bellevue, WA, USA
R II
Senior Member
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Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 111
Bellevue, WA, USA
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I then tried to bleed the air out of the system but the manual lever on the lift pump got me about ten drops of fuel per 100 pumps.
Does this mean that the lift pump is toast? The manual lever on the lift pump on Rauzer II worked well once I figured out how it works. If you just push it down until you feel resistance then let it up, almost nothing is pumped. I had to push it down about another 1/4 inch or so, then when I let it up it gave a little squirt. It seems that only that last little bit of a push actually moved the diaphram. The varying rpm,s while underway is almost certainly the small secondary filter. I have to change mine a couple times a year. Eventually I want to clean the tank and replace the fuel lines to eliminate this problem, but it is low on the priority list for this year. I changed my lift pump last year. Any Yanmar dealer should have them in stock.
AC
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