lakesailor
Senior Member
Registered: 03/10/10
Posts: 76
Loc: PNW
Yet another “quick” question…..tonight I removed the batteries and now have a question regarding the battery wiring…..
Hull #48 has a Rule three way battery switch (i.e. Battery 1 or Battery 2 or both settings)
From a wiring perspective positive on battery 1 switch leads to positive on battery 1. However positive on battery 2 switch leads to the Yanmar and the common 1+2 on the switch leads to the positive on battery 2. This seems in error as one would think the positive on the battery 2 switch would lead to the positive on Battery 2 and the common on the battery switch would lead to the Yanmar. Am I missing something?
The negative is basically negative on battery #1 connected to the negative on battery # 2 and then connected to the engine block ground so that part seems OK.
I am thinking that the battery switch #2 positive should be connected to the battery #2 positive and the battery switch common positive should be connected to the Yanmar. Am I missing something?
I couldn’t find a RULE manual online however it seems Perko follows this pattern.
lakesailor
Senior Member
Registered: 03/10/10
Posts: 76
Loc: PNW
Originally Posted By: Rhapsody #348
I think that's wrong. "1" to battery #1, "2" to battery #2, "Common" to alternator and DC distribution.
That is what I was thinking as well. Currently the common and DC distribution are grouped together only they are coming off battery switch #2 positive instead of the switch common (1+2) positive as I am thinking should be the case….
last fling IV
Senior Member
Registered: 01/30/09
Posts: 31
Loc: Kailua Kona, HI
No Question! 1 goes to 1 and 2 goes to 2. Both goes to starter or common connectio point. Ground goes to ground in all cases. Any other combination will probably make smoke and cost money.
lakesailor
Senior Member
Registered: 03/10/10
Posts: 76
Loc: PNW
Originally Posted By: last fling IV
No Question! 1 goes to 1 and 2 goes to 2. Both goes to starter or common connectio point. Ground goes to ground in all cases. Any other combination will probably make smoke and cost money.
That make sense….I re-wired the switch and corrected this problem yesterday. The way it was in the past battery #1 was hooked up properly however batter #2 was hooked up to A+B and the starter was hooked up to the battery #2 position.
lakesailor
Senior Member
Registered: 03/10/10
Posts: 76
Loc: PNW
Originally Posted By: Rhapsody #348
All I can think of for the capacitor use is to stop a high voltage arc and prevent burning contacts when the starter button is released. From EE terms it minimizes the dI/dt (change in current over change in time). Kind of like the old condenser across the points in a distributor on gas engines before electronic ignition. The capacitor should do nothing to help or hurt starting performance.
I haven't seen a Yanmar with a capacitor there. It's not shown in any of the service manual prints.
I'm on my 3rd year with a Walmart Group 24 set of car batteries 650 cranking amps that were $70 each when I bought them. No problems.
Apparently the purpose of the capacitor was to serve as an “alternator filter” to help prevent interference for an old MLX Loran the boat no longer has.
I took your advice and picked up a Wal-Mart Group 24 house brand (Energizer) starting battery. 1000 cca for $ 97. For the “house” battery I picked up a Lifeline deep cycle marine http://www.lifelinebatteries.com/marineflyer.php?id=1
I hope to get both installed today and see if my problems are now resolved. Also going to re-check my solenoid connections as well.
lakesailor
Senior Member
Registered: 03/10/10
Posts: 76
Loc: PNW
Another question…
Yesterday I got the new batteries installed…..I am not certain if my problem is yet resolved, however during my checks from yesterday sessions I noticed that only of the two batteries seems to be getting a charge from the alternator when the engine is going.
I am now trying to determine if anyone has an idea why that might be ? Basically the ground on the two batteries is linked together before being connected to the ground on the engine block. The positive on each battery is each connected to the appropriate terminal on the battery switch. And yet once the motor is started only battery #2 will show over 14 volts at the terminals whereas the first battery show the normal mid 13’s range.
I am trying to figure out why this might be or is it common that the alternator only puts out enough current to only charge one battery and the second one to a lesser degree ?
last fling IV
Senior Member
Registered: 01/30/09
Posts: 31
Loc: Kailua Kona, HI
unless you have an isolator, you will only charge the battery that the switch selects (1-2 or both). If you get different readings on both, you may have a poor connection to the lower battery. My old electrical repairman hates isolators (causes alternator problems) I had partial charging until I cut out the isolator and hooked the alternator up to the main power connection at the starter.
lakesailor
Senior Member
Registered: 03/10/10
Posts: 76
Loc: PNW
Originally Posted By: NaturalHigh
Unhook battery number one and just check the voltage on the connector when it is charging.
I think I figured out the problem…..to my surprise the battery switch seems to have an issue where the switch position for battery #1 seems to have an internal contact issue. You need to really wiggle the switch in position #1 to get the current through. Yesterday once I figured that out and wiggled the switch I was getting over 14 volts from the alternator to battery #1.
I have a new switch on order so hopefully that will be one more thing I can cross off the list. I did get manage to get the oil changed yesterday as well…..and re-wired the fuel tank gauge…..it is always fun crossing off items on the to-do list, although those items being added at the bottom always seem to come quicker……
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