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#5222 07/04/03 12:48 AM
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 28
Senior Member
Senior Member
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 28
The neutral knob has broken off of my handle assembly. Has anyone replaced the control handle (assembly) and with what brand and model?

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#5223 07/05/03 04:32 PM
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,678
Past J/30 Class President
Past J/30 Class President
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,678
My neutral knob broke off, too. However, I was able to extract the sheered off threaded stud from within the throttle control assembly. Then I screwed a bolt in there with the same threads and put a stopper ball on the end of the new bolt.

#5224 07/25/03 08:01 PM
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 116
Senior Member
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 116
I replaced the entire unit on my boat last year. If you write to me at Rrude@ric.edu I'll mail you some photos of the installation.

Bob Rude
#357
"Mmmmm"

#5225 07/28/03 11:35 AM
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 173
Senior Member
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 173
Bob, I think the pictures would be useful to a bunch of owners. Could you post them to the web somewhere and provide a link? Perhaps you could use one of the free image sites, like ImageStation.

#5226 06/17/04 08:09 AM
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 148
Senior Member
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 148
Has anyone sheared-off the throttle control arm on the front gear housing (yes, on the engine)? I replaced the old shifter with a new Telemorse shifter, and a few weeks later caught (over-pushed) the shifter when stepping down from the seat, ripping the link (at the other end of the cable) right off the engine. 2 Questions: Do the old shifters have a hard stop in them (thru mine away)? And, has anyone removed the gear housing cover and/or replaced the throttle input shaft? The manual is not clear on how to take it apart.

#5227 06/18/04 09:11 AM
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 148
Senior Member
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 148
6 or more weeks from Japan for 724070-66530 HANDLE,REGULATOR, the part your throttle cable attaches to. That's a season-killer. Yanmar NA, Torrenson, Mack Boring, etc. all out of stock. Anyone know of any used-parts-engines around?

#5228 06/18/04 11:29 AM
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 148
Senior Member
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 148
It just gets better. Regulator Handle assembly is no longer available. Ever. Looks like I'll need to get one custom-made.

#5229 06/21/04 10:34 AM
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 148
Senior Member
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 148
Glad there hasn't been any response to this thread_ means no one else has had to deal with this (yet).

I don't know if anyone cares to read the details, but here are a few notes for the archive:

You CAN remove the regulator (throttle) handle and shaft from the gear-cover by simply removing the governor cover on the front of the gear cover, remove the governor spring, tap-out the taper pin holding the lower handle to the shaft, remove the lower handle, and pull the regulator shaft out of the bushing. Make sure you hold the pin securely when tapping it out - you don't want to lose it inside the gear cover. The good news is you don't need to remove the whole gear cover like the instructions recommend. The bad news is if you drop the taper pin, you do need to remove the gear cover (and water pump, alternator, injection pump, flywheel, and "manual-start-handle cross-pin" in the end of the camshaft). Since I did that, I recommend carefully counting the number of turns when removing the injection pump limiter so you can put it back precisely where it was. Also, be very careful when removing the injector pump that the control rack does not catch/bind/bend on the gear cover_ go slow and easy. I found it easier, actually, to just loosen the injection pump enough that its cam-followers disengage the camshaft so the gear cover can be pulled-off. The only reason then to finish removing the pump is to replace the gasket, if you feel you need to. BTW - that little pin for the start handle is held in place by a socket-head cap screw in the end of the camshaft. Mine was obscured by dirt, so it took awhile to figure out how to remove it.

The regulator shaft is 8mm dia by 2" long, precision ground steel rod, cross drilled/reamed for the taper pins and grooved for the o-rings. Easy part to make, although some shops wont touch it if you tell them it's for a diesel (liability). I'm replacing mine with 8mm 303SS, available from Nordex in Danbury CT (800) 243-0986. Rather than wait 3 weeks for cut-to-length, I bought 36" for about $15. If anybody needs a piece, I'm happy to send you some. I'll never use the rest. I also have 36" of 7mm 303 for the cross-pin (don't ask). Oh, I'm not bothering with the taper pins. Will secure the handles with bolts, either with locking nuts or tapped into the handles.

Joined: May 2025
Posts: 1
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Thank you for sharing this thread. I finally have the same problem today on my yanmar 2qm15, as I broke the governor handle assy. I went on Nordex website and I could not find the part you mentioned in your post. Can you please let me know if I can still buy it somewhere else? Did Nordex drill and groove the o-rings for you on the standard regulator shaft or was that a specialized shop? Thanks!


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