J/30 Class Association Forums J/30 Forum The Boat, Sails and Equipment Yanmar 2GMF Winterizing

Does anyone know where to get info on "winterizing" a Yanmar?

Check out http://www.marinedieseldirect.com/articles/winterizing-fresh-water-cooled-inboard.html

The above reference sounds right except...I would take the filter off after pumping out the oil, put on a new filter, fill it up, and then winterize it with anifreeze. Check the dip stick after you've done the antifreeze job and top off the oil. You get more of the old oil out this way. Takes about half an hour. I did it yesterday.

The boat is out of the water on jackstands. Are there any complications running the diesel on land drawing coolant from a half gallon of antifreeze? How much antifreeze will the engine take in?

Obviously one of the considerations is keeping people and property away from the exhaust.

For some reason I had in mind a fresh water cooled engine (maybe from reading another post?). Here is the link for the sea water cooled engine: http://www.marinedieseldirect.com/articles/winterizing-sea-cooled-inboard.html

I agree with the filter change. Last year when I winterized my engine, it took less than a gallon of antifreeze before it was coming out of the exhaust. It didn't seem like much, but I had no problems with the spring commissioning.

I do mine on her trailer. I use a bucket and hose in the cockpit to siphon water while I warm the engine up. The same set-p for the antifreeze. I have a t-valve in the cooling line to hook in a 10 foot piece of hose.

Now I'm really confused. Sorry to be so dense.

It is a fresh water cooled 2GMF.

Isn't it accurate that the fresh water in the system for cooling already has coolant/antifreeze in it? I can see it does by opening the cap and looking at the green color of the fluid. Does this need to be flushed/changed for winterizing?

I thought that the instructions meant that even on a fresh water cooled engine that the sea water intake system (that presumably goes through a heat exchanger) needs to be filled with antifreeze to prevent residual salt water from freezing and damaging the engine.

Patience with me, I'm a sailor not a mechanic.

Paul, that's correct. Presumably, the primary loop (that's the engine side of the heat exchanger) is filled with glycol antifreeze (ethylene glycol is the green stuff). A test with an antifreeze checker will tell you what at temperature it would freeze. In winterizing the engine, the secondary loop (that's the raw water side) must be filled with antifreeze to protect the exchanger, pump, muffler and associated hoses. This is where you use propylene glycol (the pink stuff). It's not toxic to wildlife.

Mondial has a raw water cooled engine, and I've found that I need less than 0.5 gallons to winterize the system.

I realize this is an old thread but after reading the winterizing suggestions here: http://j30.us/blog/?page_id=356#Winterizing I'm kind of hung up on the suggestion "3 Drain the cooling system completely, remove water pump impeller and pack water pump with clean fuel."

Put fuel in the water pump or is this a typo and it should be propylene glycol like the rest of the cooling system?

Bob - You're correct. That article has been like that forever, but it should not be packed with fuel, because it can attack the rubber. I've changed the words to "glycerin or a film of ethyl glycol antifreeze".