J/30 Class Association Forums J/30 Forum The Boat, Sails and Equipment Yanmar 2GMF Winterizing

My first impeller was fine for 12 years but I had to replace the water pump because the shaft seals started to go. I am not so certain about this need for visually inspecting the impeller nor concerned that RV antifreeze -60 will do much to the impeller.

Thanks Bill/Vic. On the raw water cooled engine I figure sucking a gallon or so of the pink stuff up through the intake until it visible out of the exhaust has always taken care of freeze risk.

Resurrecting this thread with a small question. About to winterize the diesel and I was wondering what peoples opinions are regarding whether an oil change is necessary. It had an oil change last year when it was winterized and I put maybe... 3 hours of use on the engine this year? Is an oil change a cardinal rule or will it be alright for next season?

Cheers

Yes - you get trace of sulfur deposits when the engine is run and it can turn acidic in the oil. It's not that much more to do an oil change to prep for the winter.

I've got 24 years changing oil every couple years as we sailed on/off mooring. The fallback was recommendations to change oil every 50 or 100 hours ... I think that was to address the sulfur/and or moisture in the oil. Hey if we can leave diesel in the tank for a couple of years.

Since we keep our fuel tank closer to empty than full, I have been pumping it out for winter and burning the diesel with the heating oil in the boiler at my office. In Cap'n Vic fashion, this may be the year for 'once every thirty' fuel lines. They're hard as a rock and I need to rule them out at as the source of an ongoing conk out/bleed the air fuel system issue.

I have had the problem twice. Once I reused the crush washers on the small filter and the other was a small crack in the line to the racor. If they are that bad, replace them with high quality (30 psi)braided hose. These things only happen at bad times.

Actually the rubber fuel hose lines are once every 15 years if your vents are screwed up. The main problem I had 10 years ago was that the air vent out hose from the engine compartment dropped down from the top of the engine compartment, so that the hot air around the engine was not being sucked out from the top.

{{as you remember the forward facing cowl vent on the transom pulls air into the engine compartment and that hose goes to the bottom of that compartment ... the aft facing vent pulls air out from the top of the compartment and that hose is held there by a plastic wire tie that breaks at about 12 years ... dropping the plastic vent hose to the bottom of the engine compartment and doing very little good in venting the compartment. this is on the 500 series, may be different on the original engine compartment. }}

The rubber fuel hose was fine from the tank into the engine compartment, at which point it hardened up and started to crack as apparently the heat in the engine compartment did a job on the hose. Perfectly fine 15 year old hose outside the engine compartment to hard cracked crap going to the racor and then to the lift pump.

I've got it on my maintenance list to check that hose in 2020, but I do check the wire tie is holding the vent hose up every time I do a oil change.

Contrary to the previous owners recommendation, I changed the oil and filter on 526 during this year's winterizing. The filter was marked with 2011 so pretty recent.

The best thing I ever learned in maintenance was to laundry mark the replacement part with the date ... just so after 20 years or so you can remember when you did maintenance on that part last. So OK most boat owners don't think they are going to have a boat for 20-30 years ... but for those who do ... always good to know last time you replaced stuff.