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Forums28
Topics4,042
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Most Online575 Jan 6th, 2026
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Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 137
Senior Member
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Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 137 |
I am presently addressing the core problems on my '86 and have cut open the foredeck (from outside) and around the chainplates and replaced the balsa with corecell I have photos if you want to see
Taras Hull #532 BreakAway
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Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,684 Likes: 1
Past J/30 Class President
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Past J/30 Class President
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,684 Likes: 1 |
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 55
Senior Member
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Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 55 |
Those are great pics, but how about some captions? What core material did you use? How did you get a good bond at the edges?
Moving right along, I made the first painful cut in Blue J's inner hull, about 6" square, beneath the foward half of the quarterberth. The skin had to be pried off (no delamination), and the balsa was wet but not rotted. Intending to make more such cuts and run a small heater to try to dry things out.
Does anyone have pics of how you cut around the exhaust pipe from the inside? I don't want to remove too much material.
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 55
Senior Member
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Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 55 |
Made more cuts over the weekend. Transom pretty rotten, as is hull adjacent. Are we sure the exhaust pipe is the main culprit? It's hard to see how water works its way upward through the transom. Also, there is a LOT of water in the starboard hull, considering that the exhaust hole is only under water when on port tack and not moving very fast. I can't find another obvious source other than the chainplate bolt holes, but why would starboard be different from port if that were the case? It's puzzling.
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Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,684 Likes: 1
Past J/30 Class President
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Past J/30 Class President
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,684 Likes: 1 |
Peter - I think it is past history from all those who have gone before us that confirmed this is the source. The entire stbd side below the waterline is wet. If it were chainplates, you'd see it on port side too.
Rhapsody is being hauled this week. I'll be taking a moisture meter and drawing a moisture map on the hull to compare "before" and "after" drying. Core samples will determine where I cut into the hull for core replacement. Transom for sure. I'll post pics on the progress. Please do the same with your work too. I'm interested in comparing notes. Others like Rattle & Hum, Zephyr V2.0, Mango Madness, BreakAway, etc. have posted some great pictures and blog journals we can refer to.
Taras - on your pics you show the recore with a series of numbers on the core and side like a jigsaw puzzle. Is that where individual pieces were cut to fit, then reassembled with the epoxy?
Bill
[This message has been edited by Rhapsody #348 (edited 10-14-2008).]
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Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 137
Senior Member
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Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 137 |
Yes, the numbers are to remember which piece fits where The balsa was removed for an additional 1" to 1 1/2" under the cut of the fibreglass, so the core replacement (which is "corecell") actually gets inserted and slides under the top layer. So it really is a sequenced jigsaw puzzle to place them in
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Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,684 Likes: 1
Past J/30 Class President
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Past J/30 Class President
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,684 Likes: 1 |
Ok - Rhapsody was hauled yesterday. I plan on removing all the deck hardware this weekend and start a moisture meter survey to draw a detailed map on the hull.
I noticed for the 1st time blisters in the stbd aft section - these were NOT there last spring and I'm sure caused due to water from the inside, not the outside since I redid the bottom and put a good barrier coat on two seasons back. Looks like this area will be opened up from the inside and recored.
Dumb question - what do you use to cut the new balsa core to the right shape. Just a plain jigsaw?
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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 140
Senior Member
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Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 140 |
A jigsaw will shred the balsa. It comes on a scrim so you're dealing with individual blocks. A utility knife easily cuts the scrim and it will cut the balsa by just applying some downard pressure. There's no need to saw - the balsa is very workable.
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Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,684 Likes: 1
Past J/30 Class President
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Past J/30 Class President
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,684 Likes: 1 |
I've followed in the footsteps of Jason, John, Rob and others by starting a Blog to document the recore work. The Blog is available at this link: http://j30rhapsody348.blogspot.com/ [This message has been edited by Rhapsody #348 (edited 10-18-2008).]
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Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 156
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