Hi Sam,

Bill makes a good point - some of these are very well bonded. Some are not however. Some are isolated, some are not, and some are still a mystery to me, so let us know what you find if you dig into them!

Here is the list of my findings:

- Head intake seacock and transducers: Solid FRP with caulking. By applying enough torque, I was able to remove them and I replaced them with new ones.
- Engine intake seacock: Solid FRP and gel coat with a taper to match the flush thru hull. This was caulked very well, but penetrated by a broken self tapping screw, likely related to the engine strainer, which I have now removed. I was not able to remove either the seacock body or the thru-hull, so I put a Perko rebuild kit in and removed the thru hull by first separating the flush portion from the threaded tube with an end mill held at 45 degrees, then a cold chisel. The threaded tube was easily unthreaded once the head was removed. The screw hole will be filled next month with thickened epoxy, and a new thru hull will be installed with 4200 caulking, faired, barrier coated and painted.
- Transom deck drains, bilge pump and exhaust: un-isolated balsa core. Very much worth epoxy isolating if not done so already, especially the exhaust.
- Anchor locker drain, head discharge, and two sink discharges: Unknown. I made toroid shaped 5/8" white oak pieces which I sealed up in epoxy and bonded to the roughed up inner hull with 5200, then added flanged seacocks as I was required to for insurance purposes (given that they are below the heeled waterline). For the anchor locker, I special ordered a Forespar Marelon 932263N right angled seacock.

This anchor locker drain is a tough location due to the depth of the anchor well and the height of the through hull. The original right angle adapter to the hose had a cut back barb, which was barely long enough for a clamp, clearly since the short hose is hard to install. The Forespar solution is is ok, but if the bow is slightly low in the winter, water will collect here. My solution was to put antifreeze in it and blue tape up the locker door to insure against a failed tarp. I'm glad that I went through these steps - as luck would have it, the tarp did well last winter!

Good luck,

-Chris

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