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Forums28
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Most Online1,565 May 14th, 2026
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Joined: May 2008
Posts: 5
Forum Newbie
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Forum Newbie
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 5 |
I replaced the original throttle control on hull 134 with a Teleflex CH2100P. Did not have to change out cables. There are many vendors with controler in stock. Just serch CH2100P.
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Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 13
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Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 13 |
Sounds like one option for after I get the present unit out. The Teleflex was one of the units I was looking at. HOOT, can you describe how you removed the original unit?
Derek Storm Outlaw, Hull 144
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Joined: May 2008
Posts: 5
Forum Newbie
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Forum Newbie
Joined: May 2008
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Disconnected all cables and went to work with the sawsall.
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Joined: May 2008
Posts: 5
Forum Newbie
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Forum Newbie
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 5 |
The Telaflex is only $170.00 and after getting the cables adjusted has bee troble free for ten years.
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Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 13
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Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 13 |
Ahh.. the old sawsall solution. The Teleflex is now more like $210, but that still isn't so bad. So you chopped up the control unit, the side of the cockpit, or ???? The thing has big diameter parts on both side of the cockpit fiberglass, so I am not sure where to start with the sawsall (which I don't own).
Derek Storm Outlaw, Hull 144
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Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,234
Senior Member
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Senior Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,234 |
![[Linked Image]](https://j30.us/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/ubb/download/Number/1822/filename/VJ2MotorControlPanel.jpg) So OK ... on one of my J/30s what happened is that the first owner ... applying sawsall ...rough cut the original control out to replace it with a mongrel ... duh ... which made a hole not compatible with Teleflex I wanted to put in. But no problem ... 1/4 in. starboard, and a touch of caulk and it was stronger than the original. Once you have decided that sawsall is your friend ... just keep cutting the old control till it is free. but drilling out the bolts is better than sawsalling the whole unit out. I did two Teleflex conversions ... no problem hooking them in place with cables.
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Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 164
Senior Member
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Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 164 |
If you can get the unit off by prying, a simple nut holts the neck in position. Once it's untwisted and the cables unclipped from the back, then bob's your uncle, no saws-all involved. You may be able to get the black pull knob working better by removing the back panel and adding more grease, it's a pretty simple gear setup inside.
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Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 13
Member
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Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 13 |
OK, so here's the story. First of all, prying the chrome round thing off is difficult because the whole unit is held in with a few self tapping screws and you are prying against them. Anyway, I pulled the screws out before getting the chrome thing off. (Never got it off)
Good news is the Teleflex CH2100P fits into a cutout which is bigger than the 3 1/4 diameter of the chrome round piece. So careful cutting with my Dremel MultiMaster (like a Fein) right next to the chrome round thing makes a hole that the old unit comes through, and then the cutout for the Teleflex is bigger, so no problem. No need for a sawzall (yes, it has a z not an s). A little work with a saber saw gets the curved parts of the cutout, following the template provided with the unit. No need for a sawzall, cutting torch, dynamite, or anything like that. The original cables go right into the Teleflex and the whole thing seems to work nicely. Looks like the works of the Teleflex can be greased easily and the whole thing is more accessible than the original J/30 unit. Held in with self tapping screws (ugh) but you could use bolts. Has a friction screw so when you are going full speed your throttle won't gradually ease back and require adjustment every 15 mintues.
Downside is the handle is kinda huge -- see Cap'n Vic's picture. Unlike the original unit, you can't pop the handle out if you are worried about tangling your sheets in it. My handle is not quite the same style, but is roughly the same size as the one in Vic's picture.
Derek Storm Outlaw, Hull 144
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Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 154
Senior Member
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Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 154 |
I just installed the CH2100P today and had to use an electric cut off tool to get the chrome ring off. It had bonded with the shaft over the past 33 years. Once that was off I had to cut through the "nut" that sandwiches the control in place.
The instructions came with a template that was used to make the new, larger mounting hole.
I got the CH2100P from Go2 Marine ( no affiliation ) for $170.
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Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 13
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Joined: Dec 2009
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That works, but like I said, you can cut the fiberglass right around the chrome ring, and the hole fits inside the template hole for the CH2100P.
Derek Storm Outlaw, Hull 144
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