J/30 Class Association Forums J/30 Forum The Boat, Sails and Equipment Mast drainage

Ok, so my curiosity got to me and I just climbed back up to take another closer look. There is no need to drill the base casting. It already has a pretty good size slot or depression in it that should drain water pretty well, unless some crap has gotten in there and plugged it up. If it were plugged I would think a small piece of wire worked around underneath the mast and between the base casting would clear it up and resolve drainage issues. It might be possible to enlarge this opening by drilling or milling a matching slot in the mast someday when there was nothing else to do. My base casting also has the slots in it and the base has been pushed to the limits to the rear, which seems the opposite of what I was expecting from the Conundrum thread.

I just tried all 4 of the screws with a large Phillips head and a substantial effort and they didn't budge. So they are all now soaking in WD-40 and my next attempt on them will be with a hammered impact driver.

I do think that my idea of making a dam at the front side of the mast is still a good one. It could be done with a block like I mentioned or simply running some silicone across this front area and then along the teak. If the bead were 1/8" high it would do the trick and force the water to find that rear drain hole that is already about 1/2"

Years ago when we had our mast out and I was able to remove those Phillips head screws using an impact driver, I replaced them with same size hex bolts thinking that if I ever had to do it again I would have better leverage. But I didn't tighten them enough. A few months later after a long downwind kite run the step had moved aft enough to throw off the tune. So be sure to properly tighten whatever you use.

I wonder then if that is why this casting on my boat is full up against the ends of the slots. It may be that the amount of torque you would be willing to apply to this size screw or bolt is inadequate to actually retain the casting in position. Maybe cutting some key stock to fit in the slots in front of the screw would help maintain the desired casting position. There is a massive amount of force working in this area.

It sounds like the prefered position for this casting is actually at or toward the rear of these slots (base being more forward)? I know that position is boat dependent, but since I'm here and dinking with this thing I could try and start closer to the ideal condition.

Generally accepted that max forward under rule 5.7.3 is best--25mm or 1" from front of the mast to the vertical face of the molded step.

Mine was an 1-1/4" back, so not too bad, but at the limits of the travel in the slot. I just fought with all four of those screws. 3 fought the good fight and finally came out. The 4th is going to have to be drilled after the head failed. I'm glad I got into this. Two of the bolts were bent before I started messing with them, which I will take as not a good thing. It would be tempting to drill this out for larger bolts, but not knowing what is buried in there I think that is a risky plan. The casting is dirty, but generally ok. I was kind of thinking that under the SS bolt heads there was going to be some serious corrosion, but that does not seem to be the case.

Another trip to the hardware store for another cobalt drill bit.

It should be solid glass under the step. Consider drilling and screwing in stainless heli-coils. Bob's hex head bolt suggestion is a good one too.

I will have to think about a SS helicoil, they aren't much fun to work with and I am not confident that they are as strong as the parent metal. Since I have to drill one position for sure, my first effort will be to just see if the standard tap gets it done. If not then my temptation to drill to the next larger bolt size is going to increase dramatically. It would be easy now to modify the casting to accept the larger bolts too. I just cleaned this casting up and then sprayed it with a self etching primer. This was the first time I used that Husky right angle die grinder and it was great, like a Dremel on super steroids. Used a small sanding disc first then one of the stiff scotch bright type abrasives. That tool will be great for grinding out transitions in fiberglass work.