J/30 Class Association Forums J/30 Forum The Boat, Sails and Equipment Minor delamination

I plan to repair delamination (hull #503) in two areas: around the exhaust and around the waste discharge. I plan to do both from the inside, but the exhaust won't be easy to get to.
Since overboard discharge of waste is illeagal in the Great Lakes, I'm planing to completely remove the through-hull. This will leave a hole in the skin which needs to be filled. My question is that if I coat the outer surface of this hole with epoxy, will I also need to apply a barrier coat? I don't see any need to gelcoat that area, since it's under water and will be covered with bottom paint.
A related question is how to re-plumb the head to the holding tank. I'll discard the Y-valve, but should the discharge go through the venting loop or straight to the tank as it does now?
I really appreciate all the help offered in this forum.

Just a suggestion - you may want to leave the hull fitting and install a plug that you can grind and fair flush in the opening. Later if needed it can be drilled out. This may help if you ever decide to sell the boat to someone outside the Great Lakes.

You should be able to go directly from the head to the holding tank because the tank is vented, and if your tank is like mine, it enters near the top of the holding tank so that there isn't back flow from the tank to the head.

You probably want to barrier coat anything you do, no matter what the approach to keep a good moisture barrier. I just did keel repair and refaired the glass due to cracking and chipping. I put barrier coat over the entire keel and the transition joint just to be safe and prevent water infiltration. Maybe moisture infiltration contributed to the glass cracking over the years on the keel. I consider the barrier coat an insurance policy for any exterier work done below the waterline.

Bill
Rhapsody J/30 #348

You may want to check with the class measurer before filling in any through hulls, or removing 'standard' gear. I took a quick look and found section 1.4 prohibitted this. I was not able to cut and paste it here though.

Bill and Ed --
Thanks for your advice. We don't have a class on Lake Erie, but it may be possible to sell it to someone interested in OD in the future. Do you recommend plugging the fitting with epoxy filler? I thought that barrier coatings are basically epoxy anyway, that's why I wasn't sure about the need for additional coating.
Thanks again.
Peter

I would not fill or do anything big with that hole. WHatever I do on my boat I try to keep it OD legal. I changed the main winches, but kept the old ones just in caseI want to sell the boat.

A thru hull fitting will not corrode away or get blisters, just put a plug into the opening and be done with it. No sense of making extra work...

just my 2 cents

Thor

On my boat, the through-hull is there but disconnected. The head plumbs directly into the holding tank; no Y valve is needed.

The Y valve and vented loop are still there, too, but have the hoses disconnected. I have no desire to remove it; although there are things keeping my boat from being OD-legal, I don't want to add any more. By bypassing the valve, it makes yearly inspections in Chicago easier since I can claim the boat is incapable of overboard discharge.

I would also seize the handle with wire so it cannot be opened accidently.

David
#397