J/30 Class Association Forums J/30 Forum The Boat, Sails and Equipment Prop Shaft Cutlass Bearing

While prepping the prop shaft and prop on Joust (Hull #42) I realized that the cutlass bearing is worn out. I've never replaced one before and have some questions about it. I'm confident that I can manage the task myself, but thought I would seek council before I make the attempt.

I would especially like to find info on the replacement part, size or part number and recommendations on where to get one. Any tips or tricks in doing the swap would also be welcomed.

Are there any screws holding the bearing in place? If so, are they on the aft end toward the prop or forward toward the bow? Are they at the usual 9 and 3 o'clock positions (I've seen boats that had 2 screws holding the bearing in place)? If there are any I'll have to remove paint to get to them so it would be helpful to know where any are.

Knowing that I'm going to have to remove the shaft, this might be a perfect opportunity to upgrade to a dripless stuffing box. What size/part number would I need?

I look forward to your input!

Brian.

I forgot to mention, I believe the size bearing I need is a 3/4" inside diameter, 1 1/4" outside diameter, 3" long. Trellex-Morse has one: part number ALBACORE. I can get it through West Marine.

Now about that packless stuffing box...

Cutless bearings are hard to get out, one way is to take the blade off of a hack saw and reattach it with the blade thru the bearing (this is how the yard took one out for me) two cuts and you are out. There is also a tool to pull them with, good luck.
I have a PSS shaft seal. There is no drip or water entry at all when the boat is sitting or motoring flat. There is a little water that comes in when you are heeled over quite a bit, both motoring and sailing. I have been very happy with it.

The hacksaw method sounds like a good tip. I may give that a try. I've also heard of the tool that pulls them through. Another method that I found written up on the internet is to hammer it out carefully using a deep socket with an extention to push it through.

What size pss shaft seal would I need. I'm assuming something in a 3/4" to match the prop shaft diameter. How are they measured?

Anyone know the outside diameter of the shaft log tube?

I replaced the shaft and stuffing box this year. PSS went in easy, but I had to grind some clearance for the bellows. (I'll need to look up log tube size in my notes. Bought it from Performance Yachts). Putting the new cutless went easy with 5/8" threaded rod, large washers, grease on the rod (NOT the bearing) and big pipe wrenches to tighten it. (put rod through bearing and strut, washer and nut on each end and tighten to pull them together). I also filed a slight chamfer on the edge of the bearing going in. I wouldn't hammer against the strut. Also, make sure the shaft keyway that the seal-flange slides over doesn't have any burrs that could catch and nick the o-rings. It's a tight fit.

The threaded rod method sounds like another excellent solution. You're right about hammering or tapping out the bearing. That might put unnecessary stress on the strut.

How about set screws? Are there any?

I had one set screw, starboard side, right in the middle.

The set screw is almost always epoxied over and sanded, you may have to look a bit to find it.

I went to the boat and took some measurements of the bearing. The dimensions I posted above look to be correct.

Still need to figure out the diameter of the shaft tube.

I tried to get the prop shaft off while there. As usual, it wasn't easy. In fact, I didn't get it off yet. The aft half of the prop coupling is rusted pretty well. I was able to get one of the two screws, which hold the prop shaft, out of the coupling. The other wouldn't budge. I soaked it in some WD-40. I'll let that soak in and then try again tomorrow night.

If feasible, it might be a good time to replace the rusted coupling. Anyone had that rear-half of the coupling replaced before? I'm definitely going to get new screws.