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Forums28
Topics4,054
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Most Online1,909 Jul 28th, 2026
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Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 61
Senior Member
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Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 61 |
About 2 years ago the surveyor recommended replacing the corroded head intake thru-hull. I figure it is about time to take care of this "minor" problem. His recommendation was to use a marlon replacement. My though is to use a bronze thru-hull with a marlon seacock. Any thoughts or experiences I can learn from?
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Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 148
Senior Member
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Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 148 |
I'd check if the manufacturer's recommend mixing bronze and plastic - I remember reading a caution against it (I'll try to locate the reference). I prefer bronze for strength over weight any day. You might want to consider seacocks on all through-hulls - I'm surprized the surveyor did not mention it (unless your boat is already has them on all thru-hulls). I've seen many J's without 'em. It was the first mod I made to the boat.
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Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 493
Governor at Large
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Governor at Large
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 493 |
What sort of through hull did you use for the galley sink, and head sink? Neither of those have seacocks on hull 205
Dennis Bartley Planxty, s/n 23994 hull 205
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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 28
Senior Member
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Senior Member
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 28 |
I used Conbraco's from Hamilton Marine, which are like the Apollo's from West Marine. I also put one on the anchor locker thru-hull, and while I was at it, put a siphon-break elbow on the intake side of the head (between the pump and the bowl, but hidden up in the locker with the outlet elbow). Of course, had to epoxy down some backing blocks to raise the seacock and distribute loads. I used the existing bronze thru-hulls; just spun off the barbed fittings, installed the blocks, spun on the seacock, installed the barb, put a screw to hold the seacock from turning, and replaced the hoses.
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Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 61
Senior Member
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Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 61 |
Do you have a list of all the different sizes for the various thru-hulls? I hadn't even thought of the anchor locker. I figure if replacing one is a good idea, replacing them all is even better.
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Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 148
Senior Member
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Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 148 |
from my notes: Head-in, engine & anchor: 3/4" NPT. Galley sink & Head-out: 1-1/2" Head sink: 1-1/4". Remember, seacock raises hose attachment point, so you might need to replace straight barb with 90 deg barb. I ended up with slight service loop in anchor locker that traps alittle water. Obviously if you leave anchor seacock closed, locker fills w/rain. (But fuel port is above lower edge of locker so port should not submerge). Double clamp hoses below WL.
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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 28
Senior Member
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Senior Member
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 28 |
There is a good discussion of thru hulls in the West Marine catalogue. Thru hulls should be straight not tapered as in NPT
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Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 61
Senior Member
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Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 61 |
As always, lots of great help from all of you. It's about time to break out the wallet and get busy! The days are looking better here in Alaska. It's a challange to fit maintenance and sailing into the short summer.
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Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 148
Senior Member
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Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 148 |
Good point on the NPT. All seacocks are straight thread on the bottom to match straight thru-hulls. You have a choice on the top of either straight or NPT. NPT seem more common so I used those.
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