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#4296 04/11/07 06:53 PM
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 97
Senior Member
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 97
One additional idea that might extend the life of floor restoration... A good friend who managed a major refit of a 70' sloop used clear LP instead of varnish (in this case, Sterling, which flows very well. I'm guessing clear Awlgrip would work as well). He did 2 coats. Then, in areas where traction was needed, he found soem clear nonskid additive for a topcoat.

It looked incredible and has held up better than varnish. They actually rolled and tipped it (vs. spraying - hard to ventilate) since the floor was mostly a flat surface.

Just another idea...
-JBro


- Jeff
J/30 #426 - Watusi
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#4297 04/12/07 08:39 AM
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 268
Senior Member
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Joined: May 2007
Posts: 268
Um... this is my summer project, but I have more to worry about than the gloss on top. Just about every fastener is rotten... black from the screws weeping into the wood. My guess is that I'm going to have to remove all of them by drilling... but then I wonder if the floor will completely fall apart. I think there is "vermiculite" under it? Will I be able to re-attach to that or am I looking at pulling all the wood up first? Can it be salvaged? Anybody gotten into this drama yet? I DO NOT want to put veneer over the top... just make it stop rotting ... I don't mind a "patina"

#4298 04/17/07 10:15 PM
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 649
Senior Member
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 649
I will second the Ultimate Sole. I stripped and applied Ultimate Sole to the forward floor boards last year, this year is the main cabin. Awsome stuff and much easier to apply than regular varnish. Also the J/42 that I went to Bermuda on did their entire cabing sole in the stuff and we had excellent traction, even when it got wet.

David
#387


David Bows
Mallorca - Hull# 397
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