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My partners and I will be starting to clean and fix up a J30 we are about to purchase. I have some questions about the following: Has anyone modified the folding table so that it and the posts can be completely removed. I was thinking that you could cut the posts off flush with the bilge boards and then make an insert that would fit in the hole and also into the part of the leg that was removed. Another inquiry: we plan to replace all the accessible hoses on the engine, fuel system and waste system. By the way the y valve and main waste thru hull are frozen in the open position(overboard)anyone have a similar condition and how did you free them? Were Datamarine instruments the original equipment on J30's? We have some freeze damaged readouts and wonder if they could be repaired. The units still work but the display is wavy. Has anyone had any experience cleaning the tan fabric covers on the cushions and possibly having them dyed a darker color? This boat has no boarding ladder and we were thinking of installing a removable one at the lifeline gate-- any thoughts? Lastly the hatch lock downs are broken, has anyone upgaded to a better hatch if so which one and where to obtain them. Thanks, Paul

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1)The interior folding table was designed to be removable... unfortunately, leaving it in, especially in a salt-water environment seems to seize the legs in place.

There was a thread a while ago on suggested approaches. The one I remember is to cut the legs off, and find a piece of PVC that will work as a sleeve inside the legs.

2) Flushing waste overboard? hmmm well at least you can't do that on the Great Lakes.

3) I don't think there were any instruments that came with the boat. On Hulll #205 I have Signets. I know you could order compasses from the factory.

4)The boarding ladders I've seen are mounted on the transom. Mine is indeed removable... just pop off a pair of clevis pins.

5) There's a thread on hatch replacement, last posted to on 12-20-2000. It seems like either a Bowmar 910-10 or Lewmar Ocean 10 fit the small hatches, Bowmar 995-10 or Lewmar Ocean 60 for the large. I know Layline caries the Lewmars, and Thrifty Marine in Ft. Lauderdale the Bomars.

Sounds like you'll have a fun spring.


Dennis Bartley
Planxty, s/n 23994
hull 205
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 104
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For the waste Y valve, you'll most likely need to remove the valve and disassemble to repair the valve. Obviously, this requires the boat be on dry land. You might just as well replace it.

I dont have a table, so I have no experience in that area. Seems like a large pipe wrench and some brute force might do the job. This does require removing the table top from the legs first.

Otherwise, I think Dennis covered it.

Joined: Aug 2004
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Chinook (hull 447) came with Datamarine instruments. When I bought the boat about 5 years ago, they were sometimes functional. I spent about $250 to repair them, but only got about another 3 months out of them. I gave up putting money into them, and bought a Nexus system.

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Alan, if the legs on Paul's table are anything like the ones I've seen, a tactical nuclear weapon is the tool of choice. The don't come out easily. Cutting them cleanly may work better.


Dennis Bartley
Planxty, s/n 23994
hull 205
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 104
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Thanks, Dennis. You probably saved Paul some work. I just cant imagine being able to cut the legs off flush without beating the crap out of the teak floor. Plus, I'd be concerned about the PVC insert breaking in rough conditions.

That's the drawback of being an engineer. You tend to over think things. In this case, its better to listen to the voices of experience.

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Thanks for your concern Alan, but if you just mark the legs with the bilge board in place then cut with a Sawzal after removing the board you should not have a problem. I was also thinking of having a solid plastic or alumium insert machined that hold the two halves together. While I have your attention has anyone cleaned the cushion covers and how? Thanks again, Paul
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Originally posted by Alan Grim:
Thanks, Dennis. You probably saved Paul some work. I just cant imagine being able to cut the legs off flush without beating the crap out of the teak floor. Plus, I'd be concerned about the PVC insert breaking in rough conditions.

That's the drawback of being an engineer. You tend to over think things. In this case, its better to listen to the voices of experience.

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In answer to cleaning the cushions, I worked with a local carpet and upholstery cleaning company and they were able to do a fine job of "restoring" them to a fairly acceptable condition. If I remember correctly I paid around $120 for all seventeen cushions.

I did a complete refurbish last winter of my boat and in the process, replaced all of the drain and sanitation lines. As for the Y-valve, I removed it (it too was frozen and broke when I tried to exercise it) and since I do stricly lake sailing I did not replace but rather routed the lines directly to holding tank which I use a pump-out to empty. I located my boarding/swim ladder off the transom using removable attachments.

As a side-bar, in the refurbish I repaired, replaced, refabricated or restored many items on the boat including: int/ext hand holds, interior finish, electrical, engine fuel and water lines, PSS shaft seal system, re-cored around chainplate area, windward sheeting as mentioned in earlier correspondence, fabriated new toe rails out of Starboard plastic, complete bottom job and new gel to name a few. Any questions or suggestions on material used, etc. just let me know.

Two questions, what is the hull number of your boat and have you joined the class association? I'm fairly new to sailing and very new to J-30's but I have found a lot of support and info with other members of the J-30 Class Assoc. It's worth belonging to the organization.

Steve Sullivan
Temptation, #311


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