J/30 Class Association Forums J/30 Forum The Boat, Sails and Equipment Win a J30 vinyl sticker

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_AaupVk266k0/ScnZpzClUsI/AAAAAAAAAZs/nUOKmdQQFyg/s1600-h/DSCN0690.JPG

First correct response(on this thread)to what I'm building with all of the items in the attached picture, wins a J30 vinyl sticker when I get around to ordering them.

I'm going to take a stab and predict it will be "Bill" since he surfs this board every hour. Just kidding Bill.

You're making a new J/30. Where did you hide the Yanmar?

you guys suck. I'm making new lifelines. new stanchions out of g10 rod. lifelines will be 5/16 amsteel blue.

How are you attaching the glass rods so they stay put?

They are 1" diameter solid G10 rods. I am treating them as SS stanchions and using my original SS bases. I will drill, chamfer the holes so lifeline amsteel won't chaff, and then painting them with awlgrip to match deck paint. The rod is only $68 shipped from MSC for a 4' solid g10 rod. $34 a stanchion. same weight. I'm reinforcing deck with oversized and tapered 1/4" G10 plates on both top and under deck.

I'm also making stern rail seats out of G10 1/4" board since I bought too much.

I'm doing alot actually. Making my own lifeline cushions with PVC and sunbrella. Glassing, fairing, and painting sliding hatch, making an anchor sail from old mainsail. Installing huge 10" recessed deck cleat in original bow cleat location. (ebay $19) and the cleat is made by ORCAS co. It's 316 SS and retails for $375 a piece. Best ebay deal ever.

Pics and processes soon to be posted on blog. Give me a few weeks.

ok - Similar project at the base, but I'm using the existing stanchions and lifelines. I made G-10 backing plates that will be bonded underneath the deck. I shimmed the G-10 with smaller pieces of G-10 by the deck seam so the plates are flat on the bottom. On the top, I'm using white 1/4" polypropylene sheet that is cut to fit under the stanchion bases and extend out an inch to help spread the load. I'll bond the polypropylene to the deck with 4200, fasten the sandwich with the G-10 epoxied below decks until the resin and 4200 cures. Once this is done, I'll use silkaflex under the stanchion bases, loosely draw down the stanchions with the fasteners till the caulk cures, then tighten it up. The G-10 cost me $75 and I got the polypropylene from a friend for free.

Just as a note you should add a nylon washer to the outside screws of the stancion base - between the base and your plate. This will provide a small gap for water trapped in the base to escape overboard.

DB

Good point David - I took care of that a couple years back and drilled tiny drain holes on the outboard side of the base so there is a path for the water to get out. I guess it's a path to get in too, but it is no longer a water column with no way out.

Okay I'll bite what is G10?