J/30 Class Association Forums J/30 Forum The Boat, Sails and Equipment Pulpit re-installation – Bedding Compound?

My pulpit broke. To be specific, the weld holding the starboard aft mounting flange broke. I've removed the pulpit and am currently finding someone to re-weld the port and starboard aft flanges. The weld holding the port aft flange was starting to let go too.

This is my first experience remounting deck hardware and I'd like to know what the appropriate bedding compound is. I'm quite clueless as to what I should be using.

I was quite surprised that the (original?) stuff was still very flexible and still a little sticky. I'm assuming the stickier the better.

On a side note, I'm happy to report that the deck looks quite solid around the holes. So it looks like it was done properly to begin with. I certainly want to at least match the integrity of the previous mounting job on the re-mount. Any advice would be welcome.

I use 3M 4200 Fast Cure marine sealant. It's made for this type of joint, holds up well and stays pliable. I end up buying the 3 oz tubes because I never finish the large tube and usually have to trash it after it hardens in the tube the next time I go to use it.

I'll differ with Bill here. 3M 5200 and 4200 are polyurethane adhesives. The perform as sealants, but their adhesive properties aren't always desired; even 4200 can be difficult to remove. I prefer polysulphides for bedding and recommend both 3M 101 and Sikaflex 291. If you're bedding a plastic part such as clutches or ports, then use BoatLife LifeSeal.

Also, while the pulpit is out, take the opportunity to overdrill the fastener holes and pot them with thickened epoxy. I can tell you definitively that this step was skipped at manufacture.

Thanks for the opinions folks. I will research these options further.

I will also have a look below decks to see if there is enough room for over drilling. My assistant who I had turning the wrenches below decks seemed to think there was not enough room to over drill. Apparently the holes were too close to the edge of the deck. I will post photos if need be.

Regards
Dominique

the holes for the pulpit are mainly in areas with solid glass and no core with the exception of inboard holes for the rear two mounts where sealing the core will make sense

I concur with Koos - look at the pictures on my blog of the port side bow marked up from the moisture meter survey showing what happens if the holes are not properly isolated.

As far as over drilling goes - there is room. You only need to expand the hole enough to provide an isolation layer between the fastener that goes through the deck and the balsa. If you have room to put on a hex nut and washer, then you have sufficient diameter to over drill, fill and re drill the original size hole.

Bill, I note that the anchor locker hatch on Rhapsody has a slot cut for the rode. Does that mean the chain lives in the anchor locker? I'm refinishing the locker hatch and the time to cut the slot is now. I would prefer not to have to pull the chain through the cowl vent and attached to the anchor when needed.Thanks

Koos - I leave the chain attached to the anchor sitting in the anchor well. The anchor rode passes through the cowl vent forward and is stored in the bow compartment. Make the cut on the cover and leave everything attached all the time.

Finally I am happy to report on the progress of the job. The pulpit is re-welded at a cost of CAD$95. New teak running light mounting blocks are currently being Cetol'ed. And as it turns out, only the inboard forward pulpit mounting holes showed exposed core. These were filled with expoxy and microbaloons today. Tomorrow, I break out the 4200 and remount the sucker!

another design problem by TP ... they used plywood under the cover and I don't think ever sealed the bottom well enough ... couple of years ago I dried hatch out for a month and poured resin over the plywood ... two years later no signs of water under the clear resin. still slightly warped but useable.

I also leave chain attached to anchor and hanging over it with a piece of closed cell foam to keep it from clanging.

If you need the anchor fast it is one less step. I haven't needed it fast in 25 years, however.