Great! Thanks very much for this. So if I'm understanding, in lighter air, reduce jib halyard tension lightly to increase the sag in the headstay, coming on a bit harder as the wind builds to decrease sag and start to flatten the sail. Sheet in close to the shrouds, and don't worry too much about backwinding the main. Apply a bit of cunningham to tighten the luff of the main. At what point is the slot between main and jib too small, where we would be sacrificing too much speed for pointing ability? The main gets real weird looking with the 150 sheeted in as close as possible, which is why we were leaving it out further, but sacrificing quite a few degrees in pointing.
For the telltales on the leech of the jib, if they are not streaming up top, I would move the jib car forward, correct? Any tricks for moving the jib car under load? Our last race was lighter air, so I had a dedicated crew member take a seat on the sheet while we adjusted the car. Otherwise, would I just luff up while we adjust it quickly? We've been playing with the lazy side while on the other tack to try to get it positioned, but the more I read, the more I realize that this is a key point of continual adjustment throughout the race, especially as uphaul and backstay tensions change.
Our more successful races were sailed in 25+ knots of wind, with just the blade jib on, and I got a good feel for her under this sail plan and in the heavier air, but our usual is 12-15knots through the rest of the summer, and I've dropped from 3 or 4th in our class, to dead last the past two races.
EDIT: Yes, I set up the shroud tension and mast position based on the rig tuning guide at the start of the season.
Last edited by Fitjarald; 07/13/17 12:18 PM.
