Discussions on everything about the J/30 Sailboat!
With your one stop source
The J/30 Marketplace
Join or Renew
Class Membership
Forum Search
July
M T W T F S S
1 2 3 4 5
6 7 8 9 10 11 12
13 14 15 16 17 18 19
20 21 22 23 24 25 26
27 28 29 30 31
Today's Birthdays
There are no members with birthdays on this day.
Newest Members
angelacrewman28, ShadeStreet, SSN650, Saildork, Freckles
1,061 Registered Users
Popular Topics(Views)
1,146,073 Dacron Main
212,948 Ananda's Refit
Forum Statistics
Forums28
Topics4,053
Posts19,271
Members1,062
Most Online1,565
May 14th, 2026
Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Page 2 of 3 1 2 3
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,685
Likes: 1
Past J/30 Class President
Past J/30 Class President
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,685
Likes: 1
Dan - nice install. You may find that you need a check valve by the pump discharge to prevent "short cycling". When the pump shuts off, the water left in the discharge line will flow back into the bilge without it.

Crew Manager Boat Websites

Boat Website subscriptions with Crew Scheduling & Notifications
-->Subscribe Here<--
Created by former J/30 Rhapsody owner

Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 116
Senior Member
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 116
Dan:

Thanks for posting the pictures and supplying the info. I started the installation process this morning. The main difference from your installation is I used an upgraded exhaust hose that has no internal ribbing. It was slightly more expensive. I, too, had to drop down from a 3/4" hose to a 5/8" section to allow it to run from the bilge up into the starboard aft settee. It was a tight fit and the 3/4" tubing couldn't be persuaded to squeeze through the tight fit.

Total cost for materials, if anyone is interested, was about $200.00. I installed a three-way switch (auto, off, and on) with a light.

Bob Rude
Mmmmm
#352

Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 116
Senior Member
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 116
I just finished my bilge pump installation. I used a Rule pump with a built-in float. A word of advice...test your pump before installing it. I had a defective new pump that wouldn't work in the automatic mode. It took many hours of tinkering with connections, etc. before the yard technician and I figured out we needed to test the pump.

My installation is essentially like Dan's except I used a smooth hose that is stiffer than the white bilge hose. As a result, I was able to jam the pump in the bilge without having to screw the base into the bilge or concoct the fiberglass rod gizmo. Also, I installed the check valve about one foot or so from the pump. If I can upload some photos, you'll see it.

Good luck

Bob Rude
[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 679
Governor at Large
Governor at Large
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 679
Motivated by these write-ups and the fact that the last two winters have left my bilge filled with a solid block of ice I set about installing an automatic bilge pump this past weekend. Rule 500 25s automatic which I have used before on skiffs and a check valve from West Marine, plus 10 feet of 3/4 vinyl braided tubing, stainless clamps, and the dishwasher fitting used by Rhapsody from Home Depot.

10 feet was not enough tubing. I had some trouble fitting it through the aft port scupper but succeeded. Only problem is I can fit either the new tubing or the whale gusher hose in the bypass under the floorboard but not both. I wondered whether I could cut another grove opposite the one for the whale gusher without impacting the keel structure.

I'd prefer to use the forward port scupper but could not seem to fish it under the water tank, plus this scupper was plugged up more than the aft one.

My late model hull (481) has an 90 degree elbow with a screw fitting for the drain just under the main cabin sink. So the dishwasher fitting did not fit. On top of that I could not release the flexible hose from the elbow and was afraid I might sink the boat if I cut it, there being no valve on this through hull. Head sink is metal and also has an elbow just below the drain. I'm thinking I could somehow still use the dishwasher fitting under the main sink beyond the elbow. Or I maybe I have to consider the anchor locker option, though I would need to vent it and splice in a T since I don't want a stream of water flowing past my anchor. Any other ideas?

Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,685
Likes: 1
Past J/30 Class President
Past J/30 Class President
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,685
Likes: 1
Originally Posted by Bob Rutsch
.... Only problem is I can fit either the new tubing or the whale gusher hose in the bypass under the floorboard but not both. I wondered whether I could cut another grove opposite the one for the whale gusher without impacting the keel structure.
Since the new hose is on the discharge of the pump, it doesn't need to be as rigid as one on the suction side like the long one to the whale gusher. Try some of the cheaper white plastic bilge hose with the accordion style ridges. You could use fish tape and get it under the water tank through the forward port scupper. If needed, use a rasp or long drill to open up the scupper. There was also a little play on the Rhapsody water tank that allowed it to move enough to help fish the hose underneath it.

Originally Posted by Bob Rutsch
....
My late model hull (481) has an 90 degree elbow with a screw fitting for the drain just under the main cabin sink. So the dishwasher fitting did not fit. On top of that I could not release the flexible hose from the elbow and was afraid I might sink the boat if I cut it, there being no valve on this through hull. Head sink is metal and also has an elbow just below the drain. I'm thinking I could somehow still use the dishwasher fitting under the main sink beyond the elbow
Use a pipe wrench on the hose at the sink end to see if you can break it loose. If you need to cut the hose, the through hull should be above the waterline if you force the boat to list to stbd. I've done that by taking a halyard to a dock cleat on the stbd side.

Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 679
Governor at Large
Governor at Large
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 679
Thanks for the advice. The hose was kind of stiff so maybe the answer is 3/4" Bilgeflex. I had gone with something sturdy in case rainwater froze inside.

Also it turns out Rule didn't like the idea of a check valve, though I don't see the point of pumping the same water over and over.

Somebody has probably fitted a seacock to the sink drain through hull fitting. If so I'd like to hear it. I've heard that in surfing conditions you can get a stream of water to shoot up through the sink drain and hit the ceiling (though I've never actually tried it).

Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 203
Senior Member
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 203
My bilge pump is run to the transom through a race under the floor to the bottom of the engine compartment. Rule 500 Automatic.
Do you guys ever have water siphon back into your sinks while sailing on starboard tack?. No vented loops? No check valves?


Don King
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,685
Likes: 1
Past J/30 Class President
Past J/30 Class President
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,685
Likes: 1
Never a problem on Rhapsody. The dishwasher connection is an air gap and rotated high enough on stbd tack so it is above the waterline. It's literally at the base of the sink drain. I never get water coming back into the sink.

Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 47
Senior Member
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 47
I too have the extra water tank on my port side and was able to run the bilge pump hose under the tank. There is a slight amount of play under the tank that allowed me to run the discharge hose. I used a batten to thread a small line as a messenger to help route the hose. It was really easy to run the discharge to the sink hose. I used the same path to route the wires and installed an on/off switch with an inline fuse under the sink. I installed a auto float switch with the pump, the on/off switch to turn the pump off while sailing.

After what I had read in the J-30 forum I assumed that I wouldn't be able to get the hose to fit, but the Red Head (Cynthia Ross) said she had no problem with running the hose under the tank, so I gave it a try. As usual she was right.


Scott Davis
Night Nurse #363
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 13
M
Mag Offline
Member
Member
M Offline
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 13
Hi everyone,
Just to share my set-up with you all, I did what Dan wanted to do in his original post when I got Salsa Verde in 2008. I ran the electric bilge pump through the original manual pump hose. I had to add a no-return valve just after the pump, but it was no big deal. It's been working fine for 3 years now and I can even use the manual pump if I want to, it's just a little harder to pump because of the smaller end.

Happy new year to all :-)
Mag

Page 2 of 3 1 2 3

Moderated by  David Erwin 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Who's Online Now
0 members (), 171 guests, and 1 robot.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Photos
2023 Clipper Cup - Conundrum USA32866
2023 Clipper Cup - Conundrum USA32866
by mattjenPDX71, January 7
Windy Wednesday night
Windy Wednesday night
by dlabrosse, January 7
Hurricane Gulch San Pedro, CA
Hurricane Gulch San Pedro, CA
by Austin, July 23
Truckin'
Truckin'
by forbes, August 1
Endeavour (246) Sailing in Prince Edward Island
Recent Posts
Spinnaker Halyard
by David Erwin - 07/07/26 10:18 AM
170% PHRF Genoa for Sail
by David Erwin - 07/06/26 11:54 AM
J/30 #517 "Jolene" For Sale
by LTGskipper - 07/02/26 08:59 AM
Throttle assembly issue
by Tbo - 07/01/26 11:47 AM
Sailrite LSZ-1 Ultrafeed Sewing Machine
by angelacrewman28 - 06/30/26 05:36 AM
class forte carbon fiber spin pole
by wilybilds - 06/27/26 12:53 PM
EZ Rating DIscussion
by David Erwin - 06/23/26 11:14 AM
1980 J30 hull 192 Fairfield, CT - sold
by ShaneKilberg - 06/21/26 02:00 PM
J/30 Instrument Panel Type A Rebuild
by David Erwin - 06/10/26 04:22 PM
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0