J/30 Class Association Forums J/30 Forum The Boat, Sails and Equipment replacing wire halyard with rope, suggestions

My wire halyard has fishooks and is curled up, presumably from twisting in the furler. I would like to go to rope but I wonder about the wire sheaves. What rope will substitute?, 3/8 or must I go smaller

3/8" is good. If you want low tech but good performance, try New England Ropes Sta-Set X. It has a parallel core with low stretch characteristics and costs much less than the high tech stuff. Splicing Sta Set X is a real pain, so you are better using a pro to splice on the shackle.

Are you replacing your sheaves though? I was under the impression that was a must as 30 years of wire wear is not going to leave the existing sheaves in "rope friendly" condition. I am also under the impression that the direct replacement sheaves are suitable for rope and wire.

I would be tempted to go with a higher grade line (VPC, T-900) and go down to a 5/16" diameter.

I read a wise quote once: "We'll spend thousands on sails, but are willing cheap out on the lines that their shape depends on." Food for thought.

I am using 5/16" VPC on original sheaves with no problems. One of the sheaves had a bit of a groove, the other hardly any. Neither is showing chaff.

I've grown to like VPC and am using it a lot now.

A. You should have the best halyard you can afford - period. Smaller diameter the better.
B. Replacing the main sheave is easy and inexpensive so you should do it.

I think it is risky to buy an expensive halyard and then find out that YOUR sheave chafes. Just because other people have not had an issue does not mean you will not.

DB

If you've been around a while, this is the same old story from me. I've been happy with the cost vs. performance, not to mention ease of stripping and splicing Dyneema or Spectra core, polyester cover lines. I'm using Samson Warp Speed and Yale Maxibraid Plus on halyards, plus NE Endura Braid for spin sheets. Have not tried VPC but it looks like a reasonable and less expensive alternative. If you do strip the cover, look for one of the newer lines that have a coated core, which should last longer without getting fuzzy.

Halyards wear near the splice and at the clutch. You can extend their life by cutting 12-18" off the shackle end and re-splicing when you start to see wear. This also relocates the wear spot of the clutch. Last winter I did my first strip cover crossover, which was easier than expected, after which the core takes a simple 12-strand eye splice. If you replace your halyards with messenger lines during the off season they'll last longer, plus it gives you a chance to inspect and do repair work.

I've seen a couple J/30s with no shackle for their main halyard. They tie what is sometimes called an Australian bowline or "snot" ("it's not a knot") a half-hitch and figure-8. Using a knot instead of a shackle guarantees wear, but when that happens you only need to cut off a couple inches from the end.

Definitely examine and if need be replace your sheaves--halyards are expensive. You can go smaller but 5/16 and 3/8 hold well in our rope clutches and are easier on the hands.

I tried the cut off the splice and re-splice but either you have to plan on an extra long halyards or end up with one too short. Now, I tie the shackles on the halyards; no splice - now wear. So far no wear on the knots either.
Haven't noticed wear at the clutch but if that's a problem you could tie the shackle on and reverse the line end for end every year or so. though after one year, I doubt I could untie the knots on the shackles.

Knots are fine as long as the line breaking strength is considerably more than the load the line sees. Most knots reduce line strength by 50% or more. A splice is near 100%

You are correct. But... I'm betting the halyards aren't going to break before the sails blow out

What kind of knot do you use? I use an anchor hitch that is tight to the shackle, can be worked loose if necessary, has never come loose on its own and you only have to cut about 6 inches off to retie when clutch wear becomes apparent. Anchor Hitch Link