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#11879 06/05/11 07:02 PM
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 19
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Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 19
Any idea why when the rope wire splice gets to the top of the mast it gets jammed.
I want to change the halyard and I am assuming the rope end should go through the block.

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Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,234
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on 505 I have the same problem ... and I tried to feed it either way ... so am running with one jib halyard and one useless piece of wire and rope. I cut off the shackle and even running the wire end through doesn't work.

I'm thinking that the wire has worn the groove so deep that the splice just can't get over it.

My plan is to try to get a rebuilt halyard box by OCT 1 so that I can replace it during the one week I have scheduled for mast out work. If anyone can provide me a rebuilt halyard box I am paying T&M as we used to say ... and I will return the old one.

Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,234
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So OK ... what I am thinking it is the inside offset sheaves that the wire does the real job on. They look to be 1/4 the size of the outside sheaves ... and it wouldn't take much for the steel wire to cut deep.

We have a local source currently with 5 of these boxes unused, which is the direction I opted to go.

[Linked Image]

Last edited by Cap'n Vic; 06/08/11 08:16 AM.
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 41
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Today more and more people are going to a all line halyard, without the wire rope splice with the barbs and the weight aloft. You could go with and amsteel splice or a X blend. I have Hull 324 and have going with the Amsteel splice on my boat. I work for North New Orleans and have all the measurements 130' total. Here are the pricing for a Main Halyard Cruising $161.75; Racing Xtra Blend $275.05; Higher Racing Amsteel core w/ Cover and Tapered $295.00
Neil Borne
Toy Box
North Sails New Orleans
504 831 1775
neil.borne@northsails.com


Toy Box

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