J/30 Class Association Forums J/30 Forum The Boat, Sails and Equipment Harken windward sheeting installation

You know, I can't quite remember...

I know I didn't drill any new holes! I used R27HB (1.5m) variable hole spacing Harken track which has sliding fixtures so you can attach anywhere along its length. I think I replaced the bolts which came with it with longer ones (long enough to go through the preexisting track and holes) and simply bolted into the existing holes.

If you get this track and take the old one off, it will be obvious how to do it..

Perfectionists will say that now I'm carrying the weight of an additional track (about 2.5kg). Flush mounting is on my to do list, but somewhere near the very bottom...

Unfortunatly, we have the other track, with holes spacing fixed (and not the same spacing as old track...).

We bought the boat with the windward sheeting kit not installed and this was the track we got with the boat.

I am thinking of buying the other track with variable spacing.

If you buy the other track, have some additional bolts and a tube of silicone, you'll be finished in 2 hours!

And if you lose any race by 1 second - don't blame me for all that extra weight you are carrying. No, not you, the boat...

It is ordered !

The other track with holes will be used for new genoa track...

Marie,
In an earlier post you asked about finding plastic.
You can contact King Plastics Corp. 914.493.5502. They manufacture "Starboard". It is a plastic intended for marine use. They will most likely direct you to a source that will sell the material in standard stock sizes. The material is easy to work with, I.E. table saw, drill press, etc.

Marie:

The place I bought my plastic is Modern Plastics in Warwick, RI. Here's their website.

http://www.modernplastics.com/







Bob Rude
Mmmmm

I've had a windward sheeting car on Falcon since I bought the boat They had filled in the "pit" with maghogeny which was fine but had left the bottom of the track flush with the deck.
This can cause a problem as you can get the lines from the car stuck between the car and the deck ( which causes car failure a real mess in 25 knots of breeze!)
After that I inserted a 3/4" piece of mahogeny lifting the track up which worked fine
During my deck job this winter I had the "pit" filled in and glassed over which is the best solution as it stiffen's the deck I then used a piece of High track which has variable holes with a 1 by 1 piece of Teak underneath as a back up plate

Hello everybody,

I wonder if the materiel under the track is balsa or fiberglass ?

We took off the winches today, in order to put self-tailling winches instead, and I was surprised to see balsa under the winches.
I thought it was only fiberglass under hardware like winches !
Is it the same under mainsail track ?
Under winches, it is very thick, but under mainsail track, it is not thick, so I think it may be fiberglass, but I'm not sure.

I don't think they backed up one thing during construction.

now we use G10 ... Today I took off my starboard halyard clutch on 526 and was astounded to find real clean balsa under it. It was a replacement for the orginal ... but I found an original that I like way better than the break handle models.

Under the traveler is thick fiberglass, no balsa core.

Under most everything else is the balsa core "sandwich" and in some areas (under primary winch) a doubler plate of marine plywood was glassed in. Any place where I have recored that has a load/structural component (e.g. rudder, aft chain plates, under rope clutches) I have used materials such as G10, fiberglass plate, and thickened epoxy to provide better strength.