J/30 Class Association Forums J/30 Forum The Boat, Sails and Equipment Cruising the J/30 shorthanded

First, thanks for all the feedback on the mast bend question I posted.

I'm about to purchase this J/30, but have one final concern. While I plan on racing the boat some time in the future, the majority of my use of the boat will be cruising in coastal waters with just two (small) people.

I've read that the J/30 is a boat that really needs a lot of crew weight to sail flat, and that it can be a bit tender in higher winds. So I know without any rail meat we will be reefing early and often, but I'm wondering how big a problem this will be?

Is this boat too much of a handfull for just a couple people? My wife can drive a boat and trim sails, but I would be doing anything requireing any sort of strength.

The boat has a genny furler and I plan on investing in an autohelm.

We are also looking at a Beneteau 285 but the J/30 is my top choice; I just dont want to get into a situation where I am afraid to leave the dock because the boat is a handful due to its racing abilities.

Any comments or observations woudl be appreciated.

thanks - djm

Dan - I race and cruise. Sometimes when just cruising around Newport harbor on a nice evening, we'll just have the main up. If we do use a jib, my wife prefers not to have her wine glass disturbed while sailing, so I step around her to tack and handle the jib sheets so we can sail short handed. My beer on the otherhand always fits in the beverage holders hung on the lifelines! Whenever cruising I use the #3 because it is easy to handle. The #1 takes more effort to bring across the bow and needs extra hands. The boat sails flatter short handed with the #3. I also race doublehanded with a spinnaker & autohelm and always use the #3 for that. I get a seperate PHRF rating with the just the #3 for doublehanded events.

If you have a furler, by definition it's easier to put up the sail. I don't know what sail size you have on the furler. Does the furler allow you to partially unfurl to reduce headsail size? If not, that may cause you to be overpowered.

Surprizingly, you'll find you don't need to reef that often since you can use the back stay to depower the main - the "bent mast" you referred to in your previous post. That's one of the nice things about a fractional rig.

All other times when racing (my wife is NOT on the boat then), I use the normal one design sail complement with appropriate weight on the rail.

Bill
Rhapsody #348

Thanks Bill, it sounds like it may not be that much of a problem, or at least not a compelling reason to go for the Bene instead.

One other question, is it standard to have a terminal block for the mast-mounted instruments and antenna right in the middle of the shower? See this picture:
http://picasaweb.google.com/danresponsible/J30EtAl/photo#5048875122486885634

I mean, I understand that the cables have to enter the mast at that point, but it does not seem to be a good idea to have open terminals right where the shower is.

We certainly plan to use the shower but the whole area just seems kind of odd for a few reasons:

-there is a 120v outlet in the head
-the already mentioned terminal block
-the teak/holly cabin sole in the shower
-the tiny drain plug

Am I missing something here? All of these things seem like they could cause problems when spraying the shower water around.

The rest of the pictures of my (possible) future J are on there too...

-dan

I've wondered about showering in a J/30. I believe the hole in the teak and holly floor by the head drains directly into the bilge. Grey water in the bilge seems like a really bad idea. I had thought most boats with showers have drains that pump overboard, so grey water never reaches the bilge.

The drainage under this floor in the head is minimal and invites pooling in front of the mast step. I also imagine that water would soak between the molded floor pan and the teak and holly sole (if you have this option). I definitely wouldn't shower up there.

The J/35 features a shower in the head and therefore has teak grates with ample bilge drainage with the ability to lift and scrub out under there.

This terminal board you show is not original J/30 design. All my mast cables (lighting, VHF antenna, Wind Instrument) pass through three holes at the base of the mast, and into 2 holes adjacent to the mast into the raised bilge area. I added a wind instrument and mounted a plastic junction box in the bilge area below the removable deck plate you show in the picture. It is mounted as high as possible so if water does collect there, the terminals don't get wet.

You mention 120V outlet in the head - again, not original J/30.

Showers on a J/30??? I thought that's what swimming was for :-) Actually we use a sun shower off the mast, or facilities on the dock. That's one of the comprimises we make as J/30 owners....

I know lots of J/30 owners who have talked about the poor flow from the forward drain to the center bilge. I wouldn't aggravate that with shower water.

Bill


[This message has been edited by whk (edited 04-02-2007).]

Well that is interesting. This boat has a shower fitting up in the head. See this picture: The flex metal hose entering into the cabinet is a shower head: http://picasaweb.google.com/danresponsible/J30EtAl/photo#5048873026542843842

and this:
http://picasaweb.google.com/danresponsible/J30EtAl/photo#5048873005068007346

It also has a water heater - I just assumed that this was all for taking showers in the head.

If not, I may have hit a snag with the other half of of this J/30 partnership - my fiance!

I have 120v in the head, which I replaced with a marine grade GBC for the very very rare chance I am in a slip with power. This is a common upgrade with shore power, I assume its for a hair dryer, after you shower (-: So my wife and I do quick rinse showers in the head. No problems, I usually just pump the bildge,never had a problem, but I did add a little screen over the drain hole which doubles to catch all the other crap that tends to bounce straight down that stupid hole. I also added a longer shower hose so we can pass the shower out the hatch above the head so we also do quick showers (clothed) on the deck. We also wash the dogs down this way, they do not see this as a good feature however.

You really need to move the power block out of there. I routed all the wires around to the closet so they stay nice and dry.

David
#397

Dan - the water heater was available as an option that some J/30s came equipped with. As far as the flexible hose in the head - I've never seen that on other boats as "original".

I went through the pictures in the photo gallery. I would suggest that any "regular" 120V outlets be changed to GFI protected for safety reasons. The Shorepower connection shown by the engine panel was added, not original.

I notice in the last picture the stern is labeled Portsmouth, RI. That's where I am, but don't recognize the boat. Looks like the picture was taken by Goat Island looking North towards the Newport Bridge. What hull number is it and where is it kept now? There is one boat I've been trying to track down on Narragansett Bay, and this may be the one. Email me using the address in the header above so I can contact you.

Tnx,
Bill

As for the cruising sail selection, I am still mixed. When you get the wrong combination you are on your ear, that is for sure, but that is more about balancing a boat vs a J/30 issue.

When it is blowing you really cannot sail the boat with out a head sail because you cannot dump the main in the gust with out bearing off which powers the boat up and increases the heal and speed etc . When it is blowing my target is about 10 degrees of heel and helm that my wife can easily handle. So I try to find the combination of sails and sailing angle that gives me this, one size does not fit all. So I have found that depending on the angle we need to sail determins how I balance the boat. If we have to beat then we sail the boat *very* high 25-27 apparent with a reef and the #3 with the blocks a bit back to open the top, and the back stay pulled to the stern rail, traveler down etc. The boat will go to weather like a bat out of hell with little weather helm and eat up the chop. Just make sure you wave at all the 40 footers you pass.

Downwind, main and #2 poled out wing on wing. Done this in 20+ and registered 12.8 on the GPS, surf'n city for 9hrs while going from Marblehead to Maine.

Reaching, hmmm. I find this the hardest to get the boat balanced. Full main, #2 is what I use so I can roll in, roll out to keep balance.

All that said, when the wind is up, let your wife drive and you work the strings. My wife is just not strong enough for the loads. We communicate on heal and helm. Heal is obvious but I always want her to tell me when the helm gets too much that means we are getting out of balance, particularly when reaching. When you get the groove the boat will have a bit of heel but you can drive with one hand. It takes a while to find the groove but it is there you just have to convince your wife not to divorce you before you find it (-:

Also the autohelm does not work sailing in a blow, we have tried it. However for most sailing they are totaly worth it.

All this depends on having the rig properly setup and having decent sails. If they are old and baggy then you are going to have a battle on your hands. You have to be able to flatten them or you will be on your ear.

Hope this helps.

David
#397