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Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 97
Senior Member
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 97
Jeff - great link! Thanks.

Re: splicing - I agree. Doing brummel splices in single-braid dyneema is really easy.

Also - you'll want to check out the Johnson Marine Catalog (pg 14) here for the replacement fittings that work with synthetic lifelines. http://www.csjohnson.com/marinecatalog/s00014.htm

This replacement is a great winter project to do in the colder (or wetter) climates.

- Jeff


- Jeff
J/30 #426 - Watusi
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 126
Senior Member
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 126
Thanks for the link. I will go with the 316 wire. The link you sent for Johnson recommends that the Dynema be replaced after 3 years, which makes it much less cost effective.
I'll use the push in locking grommets, which are a hard nylon.

Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 457
Senior Member
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 457
Originally Posted by Rhapsody #348
Jeff - you are the 3rd person I've heard from that reached the same conclusion. Uncoated 316 stainless appears to be the most cost effective solution.

Comment - I am having stainless tubes welded in the stanchion holes the wire passes through to minimize chaffe and get rid of the plastic inserts. That should help increase the longevity of any life line.

What did it cost to weld tubes into the stanchion holes (per stanchion or total)? Who does that kind of work? A rigging shop?


Steve Buzbee
Blue Meanie J/30 #485
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,685
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Past J/30 Class President
Past J/30 Class President
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Steve - I had tubes welded in the stanchions for Rhapsody along with other machining work I had done so don't know the allocation of costs just for the tubes. There was $22 of material (stainless tubing) and I anticipate about 2 to 3 hours of labor spent on this for cutting the tubing, welding, grinding and polishing. I used a local machine shop that was recommended to me. You can check the labor rates in your area, but I would expect it to run $55 to $95 per hour for a skilled machinist.

Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 126
Senior Member
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 126
With wire lifelines, I used plastic grommets from McMaster-Carr, which I shimmed using electrical tape. When a couple of pairs came loose from the stanchions, small cable ties held the pair in place. Total cost around 15 bucks with shipping and cable ties...

http://www.mcmaster.com/#cable-management-grommets/=p9wxwp


Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 126
Senior Member
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 126
When I clicked the link, it took me to the category, not the item, so here are the item order numbers you can search for.

5269T23 3/16" wire hole
5269T24 1/4" wire hole


Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 679
Governor at Large
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So 'Push-In Locking Grommets', are they one per hole or one per side of each hole in the stanchion?

Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 126
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Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 126
0ne on each side of the stanchion, but you get 100 for $5.00 so there are plenty.

Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 393
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Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 393
I bought 3 stainless steel bolts - sorry I don't remember the size (metric). they were just a bit larger than the hole in the stanchion so that I could not push them thru. I thru drilled the bolts slightly larger than the diameter of the lifeline, stuck a tap in the stanchion. The tap cut just enough of a thread to allow the bolts to go in. I screwed the bolts into the stanchions and put a nut on the backside

Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 393
Senior Member
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 393
Working on another project and ran across the tap used to thread the stanchions. Bolts were 14mm. Lots cheaper than welding tubes through the stanchions.

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