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Forums28
Topics4,054
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Most Online1,909 Jul 28th, 2026
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Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 34
Senior Member
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Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 34 |
Fellas:
First, one of my bow skene chocks is broken. I'm not sure if this is a stock part. The 1/4" fasteners are on a 5-1/8" center so are not an easy find. What's the stock part source and part number or an alternative that i might use without having to fill and re-drill the holes?
Second, Since I'm needing to replace the sanitation tank pump out hose and deck fitting, I'm considering replacing the black water tank as well. I'd like one that will fit in the stock location but I would like one with in/out fittings coming in from the top or upper part of one of the sides. I think the practice of never having a fitting on the bottom of the sewage tank helps prevent the inevitable mess.
I'd also add another vent on the STBD side to compliment the port side vent to try to get some O2 cross-flow in the tank.
Any supplier ideas for a tank?
thx joe
Last edited by jheinzle; 03/08/17 09:54 AM.
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Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,685 Likes: 1
Past J/30 Class President
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Past J/30 Class President
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,685 Likes: 1 |
For the holding tank, measure the dimensions and you can order one from here.
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Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 63
Senior Member
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Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 63 |
The pumpout hose is an achilles heel for sure, given that it is never empty, and given that the original hose installed was very poor in terms of being permeable. Due to the tight bend radius needed to connect to the pump out fitting, the most flexible and least permeable hose is called for. Reinforced butyl rubbers sanitation hose such as Raritan Sani / Flex http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1&id=3054300 is an excellent choice. Now that I know that all 1.5" fittings are not the same size, I wish that I never bought the venerable 148 / VAC XHD hose that I used to replace the other sanitation hoses. The amount that I saved on the 148 was nothing compared to having to put up with the grief of the heat gun, hose lube and hose splitting that I went through. I considered replacing the tank at that time as well, but am glad that I didn't. Once I cut the original pumpout hose off of it, I found that the tank wasn't leaking. It was a tough project to start, but one of the most worthwhile improvement projects that I did on Blitz. If you have the opportunity to put a cup of bleach, a cup of laundry detergent and clean water in the tank before sailing the boat one last time before the last pumpout and start of the project, it will make for a very clean tank and a much more pleasant project. Good luck, -Chris
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Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 34
Senior Member
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Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 34 |
Was taking another look at the pump out hose arrangement. Beings a how the exit is low and the hose will be exposed to effluent 100% of the time, how about using schedule 40 PVC pipe to connect to the tank? Then route the pipe under the tank (there is just enough room) and up above the tank top where it can connect to a piece of hose. Probably could route the pipe all the way up near the fitting and use a 6" hose for the connection.
Thoughts?
Also, what do you use for the vent hose. Mine's just hardware store hose and that has to permeating!
Appreciiate all opinions, Joe
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Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,685 Likes: 1
Past J/30 Class President
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Past J/30 Class President
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,685 Likes: 1 |
Joe - hard PVC pipe and fittings just don't belong in marine applications. They are susceptible to movement with the boat motion and can crack. The white non permeable odorsafe hose is the way to go. I used this for the vent hose.
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Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 34
Senior Member
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Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 34 |
Yeah, I've heard that argument before. I think it's a matter of not being supported correctly. I figured if I bracket it correctly or even just bond it to the tank, I could mitigate that.
just a thought at this stage and I *do* take your point.
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