Recently I was trying to replace the wire rope outhaul with dyneema. After sewing the dyneema onto the line pig tail (mast end of the boom) I tried pulling it thru from the aft end of the boom. After going past the forward sheave, the line stopped 3-4' in.
What's in there? Any suggestions on how to replace the wire rope?
yes - aft end. Suggest you pull the aft end off and remove the entire outhaul purchase system,and inspect. Run a messenger line from forward as you pull the purchase system out to make it easy when you reinstall everything.
Well, finally I worked up the gumption to tackle the outhaul overhaul on Smiles. While a bit complicated, everything worked out well and in the end, crew comment was: "This thing works like butter." For others who might like the details of the overhaul, they along with pictures and videos, are attached.
Extremely well documented and some excellent pointers and tips. Just a couple suggestions, It appear that the hyperlinks did not persist into the PDF version. Also if you can recall final line lengths that will help the next person not have to guess.
This almost makes me want to redo the 7:1 version I did 25 years ago. My blocks are probably as worn as the ones John had in Smiles since he probably did his upgrade from the stock 4:1 around the same time.
Rivets are not a long term solution for equipment that will sooner or later will need to be disassemble. I worry about the quality of hardware store stainless steel fasteners tapped into aluminum. But sometimes you have to work with what you have and who really knows if West Marine stainless is any better? It may help to coat threads with Locktite or as I've been lately using the magical and expensive Tef-Gel.
On a 35-40 year old boom and gooseneck I now have wobble between the cast fitting and the aluminum tube. Have tried gasket material but so far have not found anything that holds up for a full season.
Seconding Bob's comments. I have a suggestion for an alternative to rivets that alleviates the concern Bob mentions on the stainless to aluminum interface. I have used Helicoil inserts on both the boom and mast. When properly installed, these are held in place with Loctite at the exterior of the coil to minimize the corrosion impact. The interior threads are stainless and provide a consistent stainless on stainless interface with the fastener.
Kits are available in various sizes and lengths to match the thickness of the boom and fastener size. The next time access is needed there is no need to drill out the rivets.
Below is a kit sold at many hardware outlets - this one is on the Home Depot website.
Bob, thank you for the feedback. The measurements for line can be "sleuthed" from the drawing on page 5 and text following. But I would not want anyone to walk lock-step forward with those measurements. Its where all the risk is and I would want anyone following to confirm their own measurements.
I uploaded the original Word file, I hope that fixes the hyperlinks.
This is a great thread. Wish I had this for last Spring when I was scratching my head over what the heck was inside the boom preventing from removing the outhaul... I figured through it eventually