Tie a slip knot about a foot up from the mark away from the stripped end
Milk the cover over the core to expose the core working towards the slip knot
Pull the cover back down with a loose fit (don't milk it tight as you want to be able to slide the core out)
Use a fid at the mark and separate cover strands to pull the core out, starting with a small loop and pulling the loop so the core comes from the end that was loosened
Remove the slip knot and milk the cover down over the core, then insert a needle to lock the cover to the core
Lock stitch the cover and core a couple inches above where the core and cover separate
Mark the core about 2.5 feet away from the separation point
Cut the cover about 2 feet from the separation point
Use a fid to insert the cover in the center of the exposed core starting a couple strands past where the core and cover separate, then have this exit where the core was marked
Pull the cover tightly to expose as much as possible out of the exit point from the core
Separate the cover strand and taper the end of the exposed cover
Milk the core over the exposed cover to bury the cover in the center
Lock stitch along where the cover is buried
Whip the transition point area and lock stich the whipping
Jib halyard 5/16" Endura Braid 93' of raw line 5" reeving eye splice at tail, uses up about 10" of just the cover Crossover 24' from shackle, using luggage tag, brummel lock splice on core for shackle Final length after all splicing is done is about 87'
When it begins to wear near the sheave you can cut a couple feet off the stripped end and splice a new eye. That also moves the location of clutch wear. The stripped Dyneema gets 'hairy' with thin strands standing out along the line when it is due for replacement. Then all you have to worry about is ripping a section of stainless out of your 40 year old Gibb Shackle in 25 knots of breeze.
26’ 5†from halyard shackle or stopper ball. 26’ works just as well. Your mast person won’t have to be handling any dyneema at the end of the hoist.
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