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#2164 05/09/05 03:25 PM
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If anyone out there has replaced the teak toe rail with white plastic (or new teak), would you share info on cost for material and installation?


Steve Buzbee
Blue Meanie J/30 #485
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#2165 05/10/05 09:07 AM
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Steve,

I don't have any direct cost information but John White did the toe rail replacement on "The White Boat" when he was restoring her. He said that job was hugely time consuming and difficult. He added that he would never do one again!

#2166 05/10/05 10:50 AM
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Quote
Originally posted by S. Buzbee:
If anyone out there has replaced the teak toe rail with white plastic (or new teak), would you share info on cost for material and installation?

TOERAILS. Must be supplied by TPI/J/Boats. This is the same toerail used on the late model J/24s. It is supplied with and without a lip. You want the lip and it goes outboard. My guys have dropitis of the spinn pole and cracked punctured a couple of the rail sections. I ordered them per above. I believe the costs was just over a hundred bucks for the two sections and endcaps. I suggest measuring the existing sections and ordering the new ones precut with the length accounting for the endcaps.
John W also told me it was quite the job.
I have not replaced my broken sections yet, but will be within the next couple of weeks.
I'll let you know how it goes.
My thought is if it is for weight, go for it. If you are looking for a specific look think about properly prepping/painting the existing...

#2167 05/10/05 04:04 PM
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just a thought
I really do not know if it matters if the toe rails are from different material like plastic. But it MIGHT cancel the OD ( one design ) rules....
I am very careful when replacing something on my boat, that I keep the OD. On our lake is only one other j 30.:-(

and you might never want to race OD or race at all, but if you ever want to sell the boat, it could be a deal breaker.....

Thor


Thor
#2168 05/10/05 05:25 PM
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If you can supply a sample piece or a drawing, Buck woodcraft is about the most reasonably priced place that I have found for teak parts and they are happy to do special items. http://www.buckwoodcraft.com/marine_lumber.htm

#2169 05/11/05 09:31 AM
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Thor, you're absolutely right about maintaining one-design status of the boat. Before John white made his modification, he sent a written request to the J/30 Association Class Measurer to ask permission to make the replacement. The Measurer reviewed data on the relative weights of the teak and plastic toe-rails before granting that permission. This is exactly the process that is to be used for any change to the boat.

Joe

#2170 05/12/05 10:40 AM
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 268
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My toerail is shot...but I looked at all the fasteners and decided I don't care enough to replace it. I've just spent some time with gitrot and will fill it before the deck is painted...I'm going to let them just paint it. The J30 was designed with just enough wood on deck to piss you off with a varnish brush...

#2171 05/12/05 02:01 PM
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The J30 was designed with just enough wood on deck to piss you off with a varnish brush...

... Well put!!

#2172 05/12/05 03:16 PM
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Cetol. Much less pain than Varnish, and lasts at least as long, on the toe rails. Still gotta do the interior varnish, this summer, and that's pain. While it was a pain to sand down to clean wood and prep for the Cetol, I've been really happy ever since.

- David

#2173 05/12/05 03:17 PM
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My teak actually looks ok (after an aggressive sanding last year) , but my problem is that the toerails leak quite badly in some spots when it rains. Any suggestions for ways to stop the leaking that don't involve rebedding the whole thing?


Steve Buzbee
Blue Meanie J/30 #485
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